Video about Pinot noir on my YouTube channel.
Pinot Noir is one of the most popular red grape varieties in the world. Pinot Noir is a delicate and finicky grape, requiring special care and attention from winemakers. However, the effort pays off a hundredfold, as it produces remarkable wines. Pinot Noir is also unique in that it can yield red, white, or even rosé wine with equal distinction.
Pinot Noir’s homeland is Burgundy, and the two names are inextricably linked. However, let’s not begin with Burgundy but with Champagne—because it’s always delightful to start with Champagne. Also, Champagne is where Pinot Noir was first transformed into white wine, and it’s still the region where this transformation occurs most frequently.
So, Champagne. Any Champagne wine is classified as a white wine—even the rosé, which is made from at least 80% white wine mixed with a small amount of red wine. At the same time, of the three main grape varieties used in Champagne production, two—Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier—are red. Together, they account for more than half of the grapes used. Of these, Pinot Noir takes the leading role.
When you are enjoying white Champagne labeled as Blanc de Noirs (Bollinger, for instance, is known for its preference for Pinot Noir), then your glass contains purely Pinot Noir or a blend of Pinot Noir with some Pinot Meunier. When you’re drinking a more typical Champagne blend, it contains Pinot Noir alongside Chardonnay. Only Champagnes labeled Blanc de Blancs are made exclusively from Chardonnay.
By the way, if you’d like to learn more about Champagne, check out my article.
So how is red Pinot Noir transformed into white wine? Although I discuss this process in my Champagne artickle, it’s worth briefly refreshing it here. This technique was developed specifically for Pinot Noir and is now used for all world’s white wine made from red grapes. Still, most of such wines are made from Pinot noir. The pioneer of this approach was the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon, who lived in Champagne in the 17th century. Tirelessly working in the vinicultural field, Dom Pérignon one day decided it was too boring to continue only making white wine from white grapes and red wine from red grapes, as had been done for centuries.
Traditionally, two slightly different methods have been used for wine production—one for white wine and another for red wine.
The basic method for white wine: Grapes are harvested, crushed, and the juice is immediately separated from the skins and seeds. Yeast is added to this juice, and during fermentation, the yeast converts the sugar into alcohol. The result is clear white wine, free of tannins and color.
For red wine, the process differs: Grapes are harvested, crushed, and fermented with their skins and seeds. In most grape varieties (with a few local exceptions), the pigments that give red wine its color are located in the skin. During fermentation, these pigments are extracted from the skins into the juice. Only after fermentation the liquid is separated from the skins and seeds, resulting in a colored red wine.
So, if the skins are removed during the processing of red grapes, and the grapes are treated using the white wine method, the result will be white wine. This is exactly what Dom Pérignon did, and what has resulted in our glass of Blanc de Noirs Champagne.
Since we’re already discussing winemaking techniques, let’s talk about rosé, as Pinot Noir is a popular variety for rosé production.
To make rosé, the winemaker needs to extract only a small amount of pigment from the grape skins. The fermentation process starts similarly to red wine, with the skins present. However, this contact lasts only a few hours—anywhere from a couple of hours to couple days—depending on how deep the color is desired and which grape variety is being used. After this brief period, the winemaker presses the must (the grape juice and skins) and continues fermentation as if making white wine. This is the typical method for still rosé production and the only one allowed in the EU.
For sparkling rosés, including rosé Champagne, a different approach is often used. A small amount of red wine is added to white wine to achieve the desired color. This method avoids the presence of tannins, which are undesirable in sparkling wine.
This was a brief insight into winemaking technology to help understand the differences between white, red, and rosé wines. You can delve deeper into the technology behind the wines in your glass in this article.
Let’s now move on to the unique characteristics of Pinot Noir, and the regions that Pinot lovers should focus on.
First of all, to produce good wine, grapes must be grown in the right climate. Generally, grape varieties can be divided into two groups: those that thrive in warm climates and those that perform best in cooler climates. Some varieties can do well in both, but the resulting wine will taste noticeably different depending on the climate. Pinot Noir is a cool-climate grape. It ripens early, has relatively high acidity, and a very thin skin. When grown in the right conditions, it produces wines with complex aromas of red fruits like strawberries, raspberries, and red cherries, along with spicy and earthy notes. It is typically low in tannins and not very deep in color. In contrast, if grown in a hot climate, Pinot Noir tends to lose its acidity and, with it, the refreshing quality that makes it special, leaving behind only the overpowering taste of jam.
So, when choosing your Pinot Noir, it’s important to pay attention to where it comes from.
Burgundy is the birthplace of Pinot Noir, and in my opinion, the region still produces the best and most interesting wines of this variety.
Burgundy is an incredibly fascinating wine region with a rich and well-documented history. For centuries, many people have dedicated their time, effort, and passion to establishing the region’s winemaking reputation.
Grapevines were first cultivated in Burgundy by the Celts in the 1st century B.C. However, it was in year 910 that winemaking truly began to flourish when the Benedictine monks began cultivating vineyards on Burgundy’s hills. These same Benedictines made significant contributions to the winemaking techniques that gave rise to Champagne, and Dom Pérignon himself was part of their order. The influence of the Benedictines on winemaking in France, and in Burgundy in particular, is immeasurable.
Later, the Cistercian monks joined the Benedictines in the vineyards, creating the iconic Clos de Vougeot, a vineyard that still produces some of Burgundy’s finest wines, classified as Grand Cru.
Two grape varieties are inseparably linked to Burgundy – Chardonnay (you can find my article about Chardonnay here) and Pinot noir. Both originated and evolved here, bringing Burgundy global wine fame. Today, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir remain the region’s dominant varieties, with Pinot Noir covering 40% of the vineyards in Burgundy.
Some rulers of Burgundy made significant contributions to the development of regional winemaking, especially in elevating Pinot Noir. During the 14th and 15th centuries, the region was ruled by the Dukes of Burgundy. At the beginning of their reign, Pinot Noir did not dominate the vineyards. The most common red grape variety was Gamay, which is much easier to grow than Pinot Noir, requires less care, and yields more fruit. However, Gamay typically produces simple wines, far less complex and interesting than those made from Pinot Noir. In 1395, Duke Philip the Bold issued a decree allowing only Pinot Noir out of red varieties to be grown on Burgundy lands. Gamay, deemed “unfit for human consumption,” was banned. As a result, Gamay was pushed sought to Beaujolais region, where it now reigns as the main variety. You can find more about Beaujolais here.
Today, only small quantities of Gamay are grown in Burgundy, mainly in the Mâconnais region, which specializes in Chardonnay, and in two other small appellations where it is sometimes blended with Pinot Noir. Outside these areas, red Burgundy is exclusively made from Pinot Noir. You can differentiate between them by the name: Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire is made from Gamay, while Bourgogne Rouge is Pinot Noir.
Duke Philip’s decree wasn’t his only wise decision when it comes to wine. He also banned the use of manure as a fertilizer, believing it degraded grape quality. He was correct: fertilizing vines increases crop yield but dilutes the quality of the resulting wine.
Interestingly, Burgundy winemakers made a similar mistake in the early 20th century when chemical fertilizers became widely available. Fortunately, by the 1980s, they had corrected course, and Burgundy wines returned to their traditional high quality.
Take a look at the wine map of Burgundy. The region stretches from north to south and is divided into four sub-regions: Chablis, Côte d’Or (comprising Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais.
Pinot Noir thrives in the two central regions. Côte d’Or, especially, produces the best (and most expensive) Pinot Noir. In Côte de Nuits, 90% of the vineyards are planted with Pinot Noir. A classic Burgundy Pinot from Côte de Nuits is full-bodied, with medium to high (but always soft) tannins and aromas of red berries. As it ages, notes of vegetables, game, and farmyard emerge. Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to age. It requires a unique climate to produce wine that is both full-bodied and retains the high acidity necessary for successful aging. Very few regions in the world can provide such conditions. Consequently, most wine-producing regions that excel with Pinot Noir focus on relatively young wines, while Burgundy stands out for its ability to age Pinot Noir successfully. Those accustomed to the taste of young Pinot (like those from New Zealand, for example) might find the taste of an aged Pinot unusual, but it is worth trying. It’s a different experience and a very good one.
Côte de Beaune produces similar wines but generally lighter.
Côte Chalonnaise, while a lighter and simpler version of Côte d’Or, offers more affordable prices.
In 1855, all Burgundy vineyards were classified into different levels of quality. The best vineyards were awarded the title of Grand Cru (making up only 1% of the region’s wines), followed by Premier Cru (11%), and then Villages (23%). Due to the unique organization of winemaking in Burgundy (which I’ll explain shortly), the quality of some AC Villages wines can sometimes surpass that of Premier Cru. However, Grand Cru is an exception, consistently representing the finest quality, but at a high price.
The key villages of the Cote de Nuits (with their most famous Grands Crus sites) are
Gevrey Chambertin AC (Chambertin AC, Chambertin Clos de Bèze AC),
Vougeot AC (Clos de Vougeot AC),
Vosne-Romanee AC (Romanée-Conti AC, La Tâche AC and La Romanée AC), and
Nuits-Saint-Georges AC.
Keep these names in mind when you’re seeking the most interesting Burgundy wines.
Burgundy is the most fragmented wine region in France. Vineyards here are incredibly small, and even a single vineyard can have multiple owners who produce wine independently. For this, we can thank Napoleon. After the French Revolution, vineyard lands that once belonged to the Church were divided and sold off. Napoleon also changed the inheritance laws, mandating that all family members share equally in any inheritance. This fragmentation inevitably led to the rise of *négociants* — merchants who buy wine from small producers, blend, age, bottle, and then sell it. Even today, around 60% of Burgundy’s wine is sold through négociants.
When choosing a bottle of Burgundy wine (unless it’s from a Grand Cru or Premier Cru, which are always bottled by the producers themselves and sold under their own names), it’s important to pay attention to the name of the négociant. This name will be clearly displayed on the label, and their reputation can significantly influence the quality of the wine. Négociants such as Bouchard Pere et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Faiveley, and Louis have long held good reputations, while others like Bichot, Boisset, Chamson, and Pierre Andre have seen their reputations raised more recently.
Burgundy is the classic region for Pinot Noir, but it’s certainly not the only place that produces interesting wines from this grape.
I’ve already discussed Pinot Noir’s contribution to Champagne production.
Beyond Champagne, Pinot Noir is the only red grape grown in the cool-climate region of Alsace. Alsatian red Pinot is typically medium-bodied, light, and fresh, with a notable acidity and bright aromas of red fruits like raspberry, strawberry, and red cherry. Alsace also produces fruity rosé wines from Pinot Noir, both still and sparkling. In fact, Crémant d’Alsace, the region’s sparkling wine, is well-regarded for its quality.
To complete our tour of French Pinot Noir, we should mention Sancerre, located in the easternmost part of the Loire Valley. Sancerre is primarily known for its famous Sauvignon Blanc, but 20% of its vineyards are dedicated to Pinot Noir. *Sancerre Rouge* is made from Pinot Noir and bears similarities to Alsatian Pinot — light, fresh, delicate, with a pronounced red berry character.
I could talk endlessly about French viticulture, but France isn’t the only country known for producing exceptional Pinot Noir.
It’s also worth noting that Pinot Noir is a highly mutable variety, with numerous clones found around the world. As a result, the flavor of the wine is influenced not only by climate, terroir, and the winemaker’s touch but also by their choice of clone.
After Burgundy, New Zealand is often considered the second-best producer of Pinot Noir. The country has an ideal cool maritime climate for growing Pinot Noir, and it takes full advantage of this. The style of Pinot Noir varies from region to region. Three places are especially renowned for their Pinot: Wairarapa, Marlborough, and Central Otago. Wairarapa (on the North Island) and Marlborough (on the South Island) are separated by a narrow strait and share a typical maritime climate. The Pinot Noirs from these regions often resemble young Burgundian wines. In Wairarapa, you should particularly pay attention to the sub-region of Martinborough, which has gained significant acclaim for its Pinot in recent years.
Central Otago (on the South Island) is unique in New Zealand for having a continental climate. Pinot Noir from Central Otago tends to be full-bodied (with an alcohol content of 13.5–14%) and is known for its concentrated red fruit aromas.
New Zealand also produces excellent sparkling wines, made in the traditional method from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, or a blend of the two. Additionally, the country offers many delightful rosés made from Pinot Noir.
Australia, at first glance, seems too hot for a delicate grape like Pinot Noir. But upon closer look, the country is more diverse than it appears, with several cool-climate regions ideal for growing Pinot. In the 1970s, new Pinot Noir clones from Burgundy were introduced to Australia, marking the beginning of a new era in Australian winemaking.
There are four key regions to know: Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills.
The best Pinot Noir from Yarra Valley is known for its soft, silky texture and an Old World style, with fresh acidity, earthy tones, cherry, spice, and soft vanilla. Yarra Valley is also recognized for its classic sparkling wines, often made from Pinot Noir or blends with Chardonnay. In fact, the famous Champagne house Moët et Chandon has an estate in Yarra Valley.
In Mornington Peninsula, most wineries are small, which leads to a wider variety of styles and flavors. However, this also tends to make wines from this region more expensive.
Tasmania’s climate is similar to that of New Zealand’s Marlborough and Martinborough regions. However, it’s less predictable, meaning the taste of the wines can vary dramatically from vintage to vintage. Due to the cooler climate, Tasmania’s Pinot Noir is especially well-suited for sparkling wine production, so it’s worth exploring sparkling wines from this region.
Pinot Noir from Adelaide Hills tends to be simpler and less refined than the wines from Tasmania and Yarra Valley, but the prices are more affordable, making them a good option for value seekers.
In the USA, Oregon is famous for its Pinot Noir, with many wineries striving to replicate the Burgundian style. However, the state’s unpredictable climate—sometimes too hot in the summer or too rainy in the fall—causes significant year-to-year variations in wine quality.
California produces a large amount of Pinot Noir, but because of the state’s typically warm climate, many of these wines can be overly jammy and lack complexity. If you’re looking for Californian Pinot Noir, focus on cooler regions like Sonoma County, where Russian River Valley and Carneros specialize in Pinot Noir.
Chile also makes some impressive Pinot Noir in its cooler southern regions, such as Itata and Bio-Bio. South Africa is another rising player, producing quality Pinot Noir in cool-climate areas like Walker Bay and Elgin.
Switzerland and Austria also craft good Burgundian-style Pinot Noir, though these countries don’t export much. If you happen to come across their wines, they are certainly worth trying.
In recent years, England has gained attention for producing excellent sparkling wines using the same varieties and methods as Champagne. This means you’ll find sparkling wines made from Pinot Noir that are well worth a taste
.
So, choose Pinot noir that is most suitable for you at the current moment and enjoy!
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