“Pleasure without champagne is purely artificial.”
Oscar Wilde
When we hear the word “Champagne,” the first images that come to mind are New Year celebrations, corks popping to the ceiling, hussars in ceremonial attire, and victorious moments in Formula One. It’s a wine associated with celebrations, luxury, and glory.
The world of sparkling wine is extensive and distinctive. Exploring every aspect of it takes time, patience, and trained liver.
We’ll explore the variety of sparkling wines, discussing the main production methods, examining various types, and traveling through the countries where sparkling wines have achieved worldwide acclaim.
Our journey starts with Champagne, which is the iconic origins of sparkling wines, and the grandmother of them all.
The term “Champagne” didn’t appear until around 1860. Production had started two centuries earlier, and during that period, the wine was referred to simply as “sparkling.” However, Champagne became so widely popular in the 19th century that since then, many people have commonly used the word “Champagne” as a generic term for any sparkling wine.
Also, in some countries, notably the USA, Russia, and Canada, there’s a bad tendency to attach a famous name to their less quality products.
We won’t follow such misguided practices.
According to the law (Read about EU wine law here, and about French wine law here), a wine can only be labeled as Champagne if it’s produced in France, in the Champagne province from specific grape varieties using specific method.
So, Champagne is the name of the specific entity. All other bubbly wines are called ‘sparkling wines’ — Spumante, Sparkling, Mousseux, and the like, depending on the language used. Alternatively, some have their own specific names such as Spanish Cava, German Sekt, or Italian Prosecco and Asti.
Today, the Champagne province is closely linked with the sparkling wine production, although some good quality Pinot Noir is produced there as well.
Interestingly, Champagne became famous for its wines long before emerging of its sparkling form. The region’s climate played a significant role in this. Champagne is the northernmost viticultural part of France. The annual temperatures create an ideal environment for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The chalk hills, in addition to offering excellent drainage, absorb the sun’s heat during days and radiate warmth back to the vines on cooler nights.
Since the 9th century, still wines from Champagne graced the tables of kings and popes. The kings of France, England, and Spain even had their own vineyards in Champagne. Interestingly, the English fondness for Champagne wines played a pivotal role, leading to significant investments in the creation of Champagne.
Champagne, in its sparkling form, emerged in the 17th century, although the complete technology was perfected in the 19th century, marking the golden age of Champagne’s fame and popularity.
Frequently, creation of Champagne associated with Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk.
While his name graces the Prestige Cuvee of the famous Champagne House, Moet et Chandon, actually Dom Perignon didn’t invent Champagne.
However, he played a crucial role in laying the groundwork for its development. He made remarkable contributions to winemaking, along with those of the Benedictine order as a whole.
Specifically, Dom Perignon introduced the idea of producing white wine from red grapes, upgrading the conventional practice of making white wine exclusively from white grapes and red wine from red grapes.
The mystery of crafting white wine from red grapes lies in the inner structure of the grape berry. Every aspect of a wine’s character originates from the grape, and different parts of the grape berry contribute distinct elements to the taste of the wine.
From a winemaker’s standpoint, the grape berry consists of three essential parts: skin, seeds, and pulp. The pulp produces juice containing water, sugar, and fruity aromas.
Seeds add bitter oils, while the skin imparts both tannins and pigments.
In most red grape varieties, the red color comes only from the skin, not the juice, leading winemakers to classify them as red grapes with white juice. Even varieties that produce wines with deep red hues, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, fall into this category.
I shall say that there are rare local exceptions like Petit Bouschet and Saperavi, the grape varieties with red juices. Those are used domestically.
The blending of these three grape components into wine requires specific methods. There are distinct techniques specifically designed for white wine and for red wine.
In the basic approach to white wine production, grapes are harvested, crushed, and the juice is swiftly extracted. Yeasts are then introduced to the juice, which is devoid of skins and seeds, triggering fermentation where sugars transform into alcohol. The result is a clear, translucent white wine without the presence of both tannins and color.
The process for crafting red wine is a different approach: grapes are harvested, crushed, and undergo fermentation. During this process, the juice maintains contact with seeds and crushed skins, allowing tannins and pigments to gradually infuse into the wine. Only after fermentation concludes, the liquid separated from seeds and skins, resulting in a richly colored red wine enhanced with tannins.
When the processing of red grapes excludes skin contact, essentially adopting the white wine production technique, the result is a white wine. Devoid of tannins and color, this method, invented by Dom Perignon, is the essence of the Champagne from red Pinot grapes that we find in our glasses.
The climate of the Champagne province and the use of English glass played a significant role in the development of Champagne.
The winemaking process involved pressing grapes, adding yeast, and allowing the must to ferment in casks.
However, Champagne’s northern climate posed a challenge. Yeast requires warmth for fermentation, but the cold autumn temperatures in Champagne often stopped the process before completion. Fermentation resumed on spring, when warmer temperatures return.
Yet, a complication arose: the yeast converted sugar not only into alcohol but also CO2. It’s this CO2 that forms the bubbles in champagne. The accumulating CO2 increased pressure in the casks and bottles, leading to them bursting. Dom Perignon considered this a problem and worked to resolve it.
Coincidentally, around the same time, Englishmen had a tradition of purchasing young wine from Champagne in winter, transporting it to England, and bottling it in their own bottles.
During that era, English glass was considerably stronger than French glass, thanks to effort of King James I to protect English forests. The king issued a royal decree prohibiting wood-burning furnaces, which led to a switch to charcoal, increasing flame temperature and resulting in heavy duty glass. In addition, Englishmen traditionally set corks firmly.
After the spring fermentation, they unintentionally ended up with slightly sparkling wine – a fabulous discovery.
The English embraced this newfound delight, and the French, observing this enthusiasm, began to develop the production of Champagne, the sparkling wine as we know it today.
It’s interesting to note that the process of sparkling wine production was initially documented by an Englishman, Christopher Merret, in 1662. However, the first widely recognized manual for sparkling wine production, utilized by winemakers for Champagne and beyond, was authored by Jean-Antoine Chaptal and published in 1801. While Merret’s contribution is acknowledged for its historical significance, Chaptal’s comprehensive book covered a broader range of viticultural aspects, including adding sugar to the wine for secondary fermentation – the process named “chaptalization” after him. However, the role of England in the creation of Champagne cannot be disregarded.
From its 17th-century origins to the mid-19th century, Champagne-making evolved, culminating in the Methode Champenoise, also known as Traditional Method. This method is the exclusive technique for crafting Champagne, and it’s also used for producing other high-quality sparkling wines.
Let’s begin with the foundation of any wine – the grapes, as they play a pivotal role in shaping the taste.
While eight grape varieties are permitted for Champagne production, the primary focus typically revolves around three: two reds, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and one white, Chardonnay. These three varieties account for over 99% of all Champagne.
Traditionally, four additional white grapes are allowed – Pinot Blanc Vrai, Arbanne, Petite Meslier, and Pinot Gris. Although they make up only 0.3% of all Champagne grapes, some winemakers, like Moutard, venture into unique blends. For instance, Moutard crafts Vintage Brut Champagne using all six permitted varieties, Cuvee des 6 Cepages (the three main grapes plus Arbanne), and Vieilles Vignes from old vines of Arbanne.
In 2021, Champagne winemakers granted permission to cultivate Voltis, a new hybrid variety developed as part of a project addressing climate change challenges. However, only 10% of Voltis is permitted in Champagne blends, and its acceptance into the realm of Champagne awaits further growth and recognition.
Among the three main varieties, Pinot Meunier takes on a secondary role. Its high yield and better adaptability to Champagne’s climate make it a preferred choice over Pinot Noir. However, Pinot Meunier is often characterized by a more straightforward and less complex taste. It is commonly used in the production of non-vintage Champagne with a shorter maturation period. Grand Cru vineyards typically refrain from cultivating it, as growing Pinot Meunier would jeopardize their prestigious status.
However, in recent years, there has been a growing interest in Pinot Meunier, with some producers even creating Champagne exclusively from this variety, challenging the traditional norms.
The preference for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier is rooted in the specific characteristics needed to craft the distinct flavor profile of Champagne, particularly through aging on lees after the second fermentation.
To highlight the unique taste derived from ageing on lees, the base still wine’s original flavor must be subtle. Additionally, the base wine should have a relatively low alcohol content, considering the increase during the second fermentation, and exhibit elevated acidity. Furthermore, the still wine should be dry, with no residual sugar. It’s crucial to avoid under-ripe grapes, as they could negatively impact the wine’s taste. The solution lies in a cool climate that naturally reduces sugar levels in the grapes, making the climate of Champagne ideal.
Being the northernmost wine region in France (and likely the world for world-class wines), Champagne offers the perfect conditions. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Champagne meet all the necessary requirements – they are light-bodied, possess high acidity, and exhibit subtle yet distinctive flavors. Chardonnay brings light notes of green apple, pear, and green plums, while Pinot Noir adds delicate hints of red cherry, strawberry, and raspberry, creating ideal base wines for the production of Champagne.
Indeed, the majority of Champagne is white, even when it comes to rosé Champagne, as its main base wine is white.
Despite this, over half of the grapes used in Champagne production are red, primarily Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The process of making white wine from red grapes, as discussed in a previous episode, contributes to this.
Determining the grape variety used in a particular Champagne can be a bit challenging, but it’s not merely an academic question. The taste difference between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is quite distinctive, and if you have a preference for one over the other, it’s worth to consider when selecting your Champagne. Each grape variety brings its own unique characteristics to the final blend, influencing the flavor profile of the Champagne in your glass.
According to the used grape varieties, champagne wine is divided into the following groups:
–Balnc de balncs – white wine from white grapes, from Chardonnay only
–Blanc de noir – white wine from red grapes, from one of (or both) Pinot
This information is marked on the label.
If the label doesn’t specify, it’s likely a blend of Pinot and Chardonnay, as most Champagnes are.
The proportions in the blend depend on the producer’s preferences. Some producers may show this information on their websites, though it’s not always available.
–Rosé Champagne . It can be produced in two main ways. The first method involves keeping the grape must in contact with the skins for several hours, similar to the process for still rosé. However, this technique is rarely used in Champagne.
The more common method for rosé Champagne involves adding a small percentage (5-20%) of red wine to white wine. This approach, while infrequent for still rosé, is popular for Champagne production as it helps control the tannin levels.
Let’s talk about how Champagne is made nowadays.
It’s a two-step process. First, we make regular still wine. Then, in the second step, we turn that still wine into Champagne.
To make still wine for Champagne, the standard white wine technique is used, but with extra care.
In the initial phase, fully ripe grapes are picked and immediately crushed and pressed. It’s essential to harvest the grapes at a cool temperature to preserve a delicate aroma, which some growers achieve by harvesting only at night. Hand harvesting is the only method allowed. Frequently, grapes are pressed right in the vineyards to prevent damage during transportation.
The pressing process needs to be exceptionally gentle to avoid damaging the seeds, which contain bitter oils. In the past, wooden Coquard presses were used for this purpose, and some traditionalists still use them. It’s widely believed that Dom Perignon developed and introduced the Coquard press.
However, nowadays, a pneumatic press with an inflatable bladder and a hydraulic press with a large metal plate are mostly used. A computer controls the pressure in both, carefully measuring all current conditions to prevent overpressing.
Next is the fermentation stage. Currently, fermentation primarily takes place in stainless steel tanks to avoid any impact on the delicate wine taste. These tanks are refrigerated, and there’s a controlled system for oxygenation.
However, some Houses, such as Krug or Bollinger, still opt for traditional oak barrels. These barrels are large and aged, ensuring that the wine doesn’t pick up any oaky notes.
Fermentation continues until completion, resulting in a completely dry wine. This part of the process takes approximately five months.
While young wines are ready, not all of them are immediately used. Some are aged for several years and employed to balance cuvee taste, as wine flavors can vary from year to year.
Moving on to the blending stage.
Crafting the taste of Champagne is an art of blending. It involves combining up to 70 wines from different vineyards and of varying ages to create the cuvée. The cuvée embodies the distinctive style of each Champagne House.
In Champagne, due to its climate, having a good year doesn’t occur too frequently. However, when it does happen, the winemaker may choose to create a vintage wine. Vintage Champagnes are exceptionally rare. While they are also blends, all the wines come from the same year, and this is clearly indicated on the label. Vintage wines are aged on lees for up to 15 years, making them expensive, but they don’t always represent the pinnacle of a House’s wines.
And, finally, Tete de Cuvee. It is the face of the House. These can be vintage or non-vintage, it is the best blend of the House. Only the best grapes are used for this. Every Champagne House has its own Tete du Cuvee, with a specific name and label.
For Moet et Chandon, the biggest Champagne House, Tete de Cuvee is “Dom Perignon”.
For Veuve Clicquot, it is “La Grande Dama”.
For Bollinger –– vintage Grande Annee.
For Krug – Clos du Mensil, 100% chardonnay, very rare wine.
For Pommery –– Cuvee Louise
For Pol Roger –– Sir Winston Churchill.
Now, a reasonable question may arise – why did the famous old Champagne House Pol Roger name its Tête de Cuvée after Sir Winston Churchill? With Moët et Chandon’s Dom Pérignon and Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, it’s quite clear. But Churchill? Indeed, Winston Churchill, a politician, writer, soldier, and more, an undoubtedly colossal figure. But Champagne?
Churchill had no dealings with viniculture, despite his vast range of interests. However, he was in love with Champagne. In 1908, he fell into a lifelong love affair with Pol Roger Champagne. During the war, Churchill declared, “Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s champagne!”
In 1945, Churchill forged a friendship with Odette Pol Roger, the wife of Jacques Pol Roger, the current owner of the House, strengthening the bond between Churchill and this Champagne House. Odette sent him a case of Champagne every year for his birthday, but even without it, Churchill had his bottle of Pol Roger almost every day.
After Churchill’s death in 1965, Pol Roger adorned black borders on the labels of its Champagne shipped to the UK and named a street in Épernay, the unofficial capital of Champagne, after him.
Ten years after Churchill’s passing, it was decided that the best tribute to him would be the creation of a Tête de Cuvée in his name. The first Sir Winston Churchill vintage, from 1965, appeared on the market in 1975. It is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a strong dominance of Pinot. The exact composition is a secret, although the compositions of other cuvées of the House are disclosed. The wine is made only from Grand Cru grapes and only in good years, spending 10 years on the lees. It stands as the best wine of the House.
Thus, the cuvée Sir Winston Churchill serves as the House’s profound expression of love and loyalty to its wine.
Let’s get back to technology. It is time for the second fermentation.
The wine is bottled, and a small amount of liqueur de triage is added to each bottle. Liqueur de triage is a mixture of sugar, yeast, and grape juice. The quantity of sugar is determined by the desired pressure of CO2 in the bottle, which aims for 5-6 atmospheres in the case of Champagne. For a standard-size bottle, this translates to 24-25 grams of sugar.
The bottles are sealed either with a crown cap or a standard cork for Champagne secured with wire. While most producers now favor crown caps for their cost-effectiveness and ease of opening during sediment removal, it’s essential to note that this innovation only emerged at the end of the 19th century. Champagne producers, being traditional, tend to stick to their roots, and some continue using the standard cork.
The yeast begins its usual work, converting sugar into ethanol and CO2.
This addition to the alcohol already presents in the base wine results in an additional 1.5-2 %. Consequently, the base wine should have a relatively low alcohol content, typically around 10.5 %. Sparkling wine shouldn’t be too strong, as it could interfere with the delicate taste.
Yeast produces CO2 in a calculated amount after consuming all the sugar. For a standard bottle of Champagne, it’s approximately 5 liters. As the bottle is tightly sealed, all the CO2 is preserved inside.
However, it’s not just the volume of CO2 that matters; the quality of the bubbles is also crucial. High-quality bubbles are very small and gracefully ascend in a narrow stream for hours.
Two factors play a vital role in the formation of quality bubbles
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Firstly, the temperature during secondary fermentation and subsequent lees maturation. Lower temperatures are favorable. Of course, It should not be below the temperature at which yeast can function. The maximum temperature used for Champagne secondary fermentation is 14°C, taking two weeks in this case. More commonly, temperatures range from 10-12°C, and in these conditions, yeast works for about 6 weeks.
The second crucial factor is the duration of lees maturation. Either early or late, yeast eventually consume all the sugar and perish due to starvation. This leads us to the next critical step, responsible for the quality of bubbles and the distinctive taste of Champagne – maturation on lees. Lees is a sediment formed from the dead east.
During maturation on lees, the dead yeast undergo autolysis, breaking down and releasing various molecules into the wine, such as proteins, peptides, polycarbonates, lipids, and more. The longer the wine remains on lees, the more different molecules transfer into the solution. These molecules play a pivotal role in enhancing both the quality of bubbles and the specific taste of the wine.
For the formation of CO2 bubbles, a nucleation center is essential – something firm for the bubbles to attach to. The greater the number of molecules dissolved in the wine, the more bubbles will be formed at the bottle opening, and the smaller and more refined they will be.
Indeed, the yeast sediment not only impacts the quality of bubbles but also imparts a specific aroma of nuts and baking to Champagne.
The taste also undergoes changes due to slow oxidation caused by the oxygen that was sealed in the bottle, along with some that subtly transferred through the cork.
The longer Champagne matures on lees, the more intriguing and complex its taste becomes, accompanied by a longer, graceful stream of finer bubbles.
Non-vintage wines should be aged on lees for a minimum of 12 months, totaling at least 15 months. Vintage ones undergo lees maturation for a minimum of 3 years. However, Champagne producers frequently exceed these standards. Less expensive wines may be aged for 2-3 years, while more expensive ones for 3-4 years. Vintage Champagnes are often matured for 6 years, and Tête de Cuvée can age on lees for up to 15 years.
This prolonged maturation on lees contributes to the more complex taste of Champagne compared to other sparkling wines made using the same method but requiring only 9-12 months of lees aging.
Bubbles in Champagne are not just about giving the wine a lively appearance and playfully tickling the tongue. They form a sophisticated system for delivering aromas. The concentration of certain molecules in the bubbles can be even higher than in the liquid itself. This is why flat wine has a less vibrant taste.
As a result, the ideal glass for sparkling wine is a tall, narrow Champagne flute, as it allows the bubbling to be retained for a longer duration.
In contrast, wide, shallow coupes, popular in the roaring 20s, cause Champagne to quickly lose its bubbling and taste. However, coupes can be stacked into a grand tower and poured together, which is impractical with flutes. Thus, coupes are more suitable for wild parties rather than the appreciation of the delightful drink.
Moreover, in high-quality Champagne glasses, small scratches are intentionally made on the bottom to initiate the formation of a narrow, long stream of bubbles, enhancing the overall sensory experience.
After maturation on lees, it’s time for sediment removal, a crucial step that must be executed without causing wine thickening or losing its bubbles.
It’s worth to mention that when we say Champagne, we’re referring to a crystal-clear drink. This isn’t just an epithet; it’s a technical term in wine description.
However, up until the end of the 18th century, Champagne was a rather cloudy wine. No one had discovered a way to remove the yeast sediment without losing CO2, and without gas, Champagne is not Champagne.
It was only at the beginning of the 19th century that Anton (Antoine) Müller, a legendary cellar master who worked for Madame Clicquot Champagne House, developed the method still used today. Nothing better has been invented since.
Bottles are positioned in special racks, neck down at a 35-degree angle. Each day, the angle is gradually increased, and the bottles are turned to ensure that the sediment migrates into the neck. This entire process takes about eight weeks for Champagne, while for other sparkling wines, it typically takes two weeks. Initially done by hand, the process is now fully automated, controlled by computers. However, some Champagne Houses still opt to do it manually, particularly for their Tête de Cuvée, often as a tradition or attraction for visitors. At the conclusion of the process, the bottles remain vertical, necks down, allowing all sediment to concentrate in the necks, resulting in crystal-clear wine.
Following this, the bottles are chilled to maximize CO2 solubility, reaching a temperature of about 4°C. The necks of the bottles are immersed in a solution, usually made with ethylene glycol, with a temperature below freezing. The bottles are positioned “necks down,” with sediment concentrated in the necks. The content of the necks freezes, and the bottles are then turned “neck up.” The corks are removed, allowing the pressure to expel the frozen “icicles” along with the sediment from the necks.
Subsequently, the bottles are topped up, corked, and if the desired style is not dry, liqueur d’expédition (sweetened wine) might be added.
Now, let’s delve into the classification of Champagne based on sweetness.
The sweetness of Champagne is determined by the amount of sweet wine added before corking, as after the second fermentation, all Champagne is dry. It’s important to note that the terms used for Champagne do not correspond to the literal meaning of words and differ from the classification used for still wines.
Let’s explore these terms to better understand the sweetness levels of Champagne.
Thus, by sweetness, champagne is divided on follow groups:
Brut nature — 0-0.3% of sugar
Extra Brut — 0-0.6% of sugar
Both completely dry, no sugar added. Into the next grade, brut, sugar also never added, but most dry wine naturally have some small amount of residual sugar. Such small amount as in Brut Nature и Extra Brut happens very rare, so they are separated in special group and even divided in two, although they are overlap.
Brut – 0.6-1.2% of sugar — dry wine. Nowadays most Champagne are brut.
Extra dry — 1.2-1.7% of sugar — semi-dry, although the name means “very dry”
Sec — 1.7-3.2% of sugar – although sec means dry, the wine is really semi-sweet
Demi-Sec — 3.2-5% of sugar — sweet, although name mean semi-sweet
Doux — more than 5% of sugar – very sweet, liquorish
It’s interesting to note that for modern wine enthusiasts, Champagne and Brut are almost synonymous. However, until the mid-19th century, Champagne was predominantly sweet, with very high sugar content—around 20% (200 grams per liter), comparable to a syrup. This sweet Champagne was consumed very cold as a dessert. In the first half of the 19th century, Russia was the second-largest importer of Champagne, and Russians had a preference for even sweeter varieties, with wines made containing 30% sugar.
On the contrary, English consumers preferred less sweet Champagne (twice less as standard), advocating for a gradual reduction in sugar content. Thanks to their influence, by the early 20th century, the term “brut” emerged, marking a significant shift towards drier Champagne.
At this stage, the wine is technically ready for consumption, but it typically undergoes an additional 6-month resting period to achieve complete taste harmony.
It’s worth noting that, unlike still wines, the prolonged storage of Champagne and other sparkling wines made by the same method doesn’t provide additional benefits. The optimal time for consumption is within the first year after release, so it’s advised not to let your Champagne sit on the shelf.
So, we’ve explored the traditional method of sparkling wine production, also known as the Methode Champenoise.
Champagne can only be made using the Methode Champenoise.
It’s important to note that some other excellent sparkling wines are also crafted using the Traditional Method. You can identify these wines by checking the labels, where you’ll find mentions such as Methode Traditionelle, Traditional Method or same thing on the produce’s language.
Interestingly, Champagne labels won’t have this specific indication since there’s no alternative method used in Champagne production.
Champagne producers.
Champagne is produced by vineyard owners (92% of all producers), cooperatives (1%), and Champagne Houses (7%). However, the vineyards in Champagne are small, while Houses are large. Consequently, 70% of all Champagne is produced by Houses, which own only 10% of the vineyards. They purchase grapes and/or base wine from producers and complete the production process. Their Champagne is branded with the House’s name. Among 19 thousand vineyard owners, only 2 thousand produce wine under their own name.
Outside of Europe, 97% of all Champagne production comes from Houses.
There are currently 261 Champagne Houses, but 60% of all Champagne business belongs to 25 Great Houses (Grande marques).
The cuvée of Great Houses is characterized by a very stable taste. When you purchase a Yellow label, you know exactly what will be in your glass. While stability is nice, sometimes we crave diversity. Additionally, the prices of Great Houses are not always favorable. Fortunately, every year more and more producers are starting to make their own Champagne, and it is becoming increasingly available outside of Europe.
How to understand who produced the Champagne in your hands?
Look at the bottom part of the label.
NM: Negociant-Manipulant. This indicates a Champagne House. They buy grapes from growers, blend based wine, and produce large quantities of Champagne.
RM: Recoltant-Manipulant – These are Growers who make and sell their own Champagne. This category includes many artisan Champagne producers.
CM: Cooperative-Manipulant and RC: Recoltant-Cooperative
These indicate a producer who grows grapes and makes their own Champagne as part of a cooperative.
MA: marque d’acheteur – buyer brand – In this case, we cannot find any information about the producer, so for us as consumers, this is meaningless.
Let’s take a closer look at Champagne vineyards and their classification.
Champagne was one of the first French regions to receive AOC (appellation origin controlee) status. This was not surprising, considering that at the beginning of the 20th century, the level of adulteration of Champagne wine had reached unbelievable numbers.
To address this issue, all vineyards were rated. Given that Champagne is primarily produced by Houses rather than vineyards, the rating of grape quality was conducted in an unusual manner.
In the early 20th century, grape prices were regulated by the government. Using the Echelle de Cru (EDC) system, all 317 Champagne villages were divided into three groups based on grape quality. “Echelle” means stairs in French, and the position on the “stairs” indicated how much of the maximum price, determined by the government each year, each village could receive. The 17 best vineyards, known as Grand Cru, received 100%; 43 Premier Cru vineyards received 90 to 99%, depending on their position on the “stairs”; the remaining vineyards (75% of all) received 80 to 89%.
While prices are now regulated by the market, maintaining (or improving) the classification remains crucial for every vineyard. Typically, non-vintage Champagne is made from grapes from 80 to 90% EDC vineyards, while vintage wine utilizes grapes from 90 to 100% EDC vineyards. For Tete du Cuvee, only grapes from Grand Cru vineyards are used.
If a Champagne comes from a Grand Cru vineyard, it will be mentioned on the label. However, Champagne Houses do not always specify this for their Tete du Cuvee, as it is implied.
The current EDC system assigns the same rating to the entire village, but a village may have several vineyards of varying qualities. So, a new, more detailed system is currently in development.
Here is a list of some big and famous Champagne Houses along with their Tete du Cuvee:
Bollinger – Founded in 1829. Prefers Pinot. Tete du Cuvee: Vintage Grande Annee.
Moet & Chandon – Established in 1743. Tete du Cuvee: Dom Perignon.
Krug – Established in 1843, this is a very traditional House that uses barrels for first fermentation. Tete du Cuvee: Clos du Mensil, a very rare wine made from 100% Chardonnay grapes.
Pol Roger – Founded in 1849. Tete du Cuvee: Sir Winston Churchill.
Pommery – Established in 1856. Tete du Cuvee: Cuvee Louise.
Louis Roederer – Established in 1760. Tete du Cuvee: Cristal. One of the top non-vintage wines – Brut Premier.
Veuve Clicquot – Founded in 1772, this House also prefers Pinot. Tete du Cuvee: La Grande Dame. One of their top non-vintage wines is the Yellow Label Brut.
Huge Champagne Houses have a tendency to expand globally. As a result, many of them have established branches in various regions around the world. For example, Moet et Chandon has branches not only in well-known wine regions of the New World such as Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, and the USA, but also in emerging markets like China and India.
If you come across a familiar Champagne House name in an American store, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the bottle is from Champagne, France. Of course, the word “Champagne” won’t be present on the label, and the place of production will be evidently mentioned. These wines are not formally considered Champagnes, but they are made according to the rules and standards of the respective Champagne House, resulting in descent tastes. However, their prices are often lower than their French counterparts. This is partly due to the brand recognition and reputation associated with the name, as well as the fact that they do not undergo the same extended lees maturation process as Champagne, but only required by production rules.
For example, some USA domain of huge Champagne Houses:
House – USA Domain
Mumm – Napa Mumm
Moet et Chandon – Domaine Chandon
Taittinger – Domaine Carenose
Let’s explore the information typically found on a Champagne label, using Pierre Moncuit and Moet et Chandon as examples:
1. Appellation:
Champagne Appellation Contrôlée – Indicates that the wine is Champagne, made in the Champagne region using the traditional method and approved grapes. Interestingly, Champagne is the only region in France where the words “Appellation Contrôlée” are not required on the label; simply “Champagne” is sufficient.
2. Place of Production:
Champagne can only be made in France. It’s important to check the country of origin to avoid confusion with wines labeled as Champagne but produced elsewhere, such as American or Russian “Champagne.”
3. Producer:
In our case, Pierre Moncuit and Moet et Chandon.
4. Type of Producer:
Pierre Moncuit – RM (Récoltant-Manipulant), indicating a producer who grows grapes and makes Champagne. Moet et Chandon – NM (Négociant-Manipulant), one of the major Champagne Houses.
5. Level of Sweetness:
Both are labeled as “brut,” which is common for most Champagnes.
6. Vintage, if applicable:
Our Pierre Moncuit is 2006 vintager. Non-vintage Champagne may be marked as NV or have no indication at all. Our Moet et Chandon is non-vintage and has no marks.
7. Wine Style:
Blanc de blanc – wine made exclusively from Chardonnay, Blanc de noir – made from Pinot only, rose, or, if nothing is stated – blend.
Pierre Moncuit – Blanc de Blancs. Moet et Chandon – rosé.
So, now, if you have a bottle of Champagne that is unknown to you, you can take a closer look to the label to get an idea what to expect from the wine.
Now about the size that matters. About the size of Champagne bottles.
Champagne and other sparkling wines are produced in bottles of different sizes. Some variants are shown in the picture.
Most popular – standard – 0.75 liter
Magnum – double standard – 1.5 liter, also quite popular.
Small bottles:
Demi/half – half of standard – 375 ml
Piccolo/quarter – quarter of standard – 187.5 ml
Big, rare bottles. Named after biblical kings and historical prsonss.
Jeroboam – 4 standards – 3 liters
Methuselah– 8 standards – 6 liters
Salmanazar – 12 standards – 9 liters
Balthazar – 16 standards – 12 liters
Melchizedek – 40 standards – 30 liters
Does the size of the bottle influence the taste of the wine? At first glance, wine is wine, and it shouldn’t matter which size bottle it’s sealed in. But it’s not that simple.
Only Standard and Magnum bottles are always made completely by the Traditional Method, with the wine staying in the same bottle where secondary fermentation took place.
For smaller and larger sized bottles, it’s difficult to remove sediment by the Traditional Method. As a result, the Transfer Method is usually used for them.
This is a simplified variant of the Traditional Method, eliminating the complicated process of removing sediment from the bottle. Second fermentation takes place in the bottles (Standard or Magnum), but after it’s completed, the wine is quickly cooled down to increase CO2 solubility, then transferred to a tank, filtered to remove sediment, and bottled.
However, despite all attempts to make this process as quick as possible, the wine oxidizes more than in the bottle and loses some CO2, altering the taste.
Of course, there are some exceptions. For example, the oldest Champagne House, Gosset, makes its Grande Reserve only in 3-liter Jeroboams using the standard Traditional Method.
On the other hand, how often do you drink Champagne from a bottle bigger than Magnum?
Small bottles, especially Piccolos, are mainly used by airlines, so we can consider them a minor inconvenience for travel.
And finally, about practical stuff.
When it comes to serving sparkling wines, it’s best to use flute glasses to maintain the bubbles for longer, as discussed in the previouse episode about the role of bubbles in wine taste. The stem of the glass should ideally be long to prevent the wine from warming up too quickly from hand contact.
For young wines, they should be cooled to around 6 to 7°C (43 t0 45F), while older ones can be served slightly warmer, around 9 to 10°C (48 to 50 F).
However, if you’re only tasting Champagne and taking a couple of sips, it’s better to use a wide wine glass. This allows the taste to open up more quickly.
Sparkling wines can be enjoyed on their own, but they also pair well with food. Dry varieties complement dishes like omelettes, smoked salmon, chicken in cream sauce, seafood, or sushi. Roses, on the other hand, go nicely with red meat, such as grilled steak They also good with grilled shrimp.
Sweet sparkling wines are especially delightful when paired with fruit desserts!
About other methods of sparkling wine production, and about other sparkling wines of the world – in the second chapter “World of Magic Bubbles”.
