Video about Crete on my YouTube channel.
The history of Greek winemaking, its modern wine regulations, and the distinctive character of Retsina, Greece’s most iconic wine, can be explored here. For story about Santorini, the Aegean island renowned for its ancient vineyards and extraordinary viniculture, which dates back thousands of years, delve here. Now, let’s turn our attention to Crete—the island where Greek viniculture originated and where its modern renaissance is especially remarkable.
European viniculture began in Greece, and Greece itself traces its roots to the Minoan civilization, which was centered on Crete. Cretans started making wine at least 5,000 years ago (as is often the case with history, the older the fact, the less precise the date). Archaeological excavations on the island have uncovered extensive evidence of early viniculture: wine presses, amphorae with identifiable traces of wine, and ancient cellars. The oldest discovered wine press, found in Vathypetro near Heraklion, is 3,500 years old.
Paintings in the Palace of Knossos depict scenes of winemaking and wine drinking, and its vast cellars were once filled with amphorae. Cretan wine was not only popular on the island but also far beyond. Amphorae bearing Cretan insignia have been found throughout the Mediterranean basin. Cretan wines were even delivered to Egyptian pharaohs—palace paintings depict scenes of Cretan ships arriving and being unloaded. One amphora containing 3,000-year-old wine was even recovered from a sunken ship.
In the 2nd century AD, Greece came under Roman rule. With the Roman Empire’s enormous demand for wine, Crete was transformed into a vast Roman vineyard. The island became a major exporter of rich, sweet wine known as protropos, which was highly valued by both Romans and Greeks.
With the rise of Christianity and under Byzantine rule, Crete’s viniculture declined slightly. However, in 1205, the island—like Santorini—fell under Venetian control, and its wine industry flourished once again. For over 400 years, Crete exported the famous sweet Malvasia di Candia across Europe, including to major cities like London, Paris, and Constantinople.
The situation changed when the Ottoman Empire took control. With its restrictions on alcohol, Ottoman rule led to the decline of Crete’s viniculture. Unlike Santorini, Crete did not receive special permission for wine production, and, like much of Greece, its winemaking industry withered.
After gaining independence from the Ottomans, Crete began restoring its vineyards and even started gaining recognition for its wines. However, the turmoil of the 20th century—wars and economic crises—hindered its progress. By the 1980s, Greece’s wine industry, including Crete’s, was in decline. It wasn’t until Greece joined the EEC (European Economic Community) that the need for competitiveness revived its viniculture, setting the stage for its modern resurgence.
Crete’s climate is ideal for viniculture. The island stretches long from west to east, forming the southern edge of the Aegean Sea. While its southern side is exposed to hot African winds, a high mountain ridge runs through the island, dividing it into northern and southern regions. Vineyards are primarily located on the northern side, where they are sheltered from the intense southern heat and cooled by the refreshing winds of the Aegean Sea.
Most vineyards sit at elevations of 500 meters or higher, providing the necessary coolness to preserve grape acidity.
There are three key winemaking regions on the island:
•The central region, home to PDO Dafnes, Peza, and Arhanes.
•The eastern region, which includes PDO Sitia.
•The western region, which, while not hosting a PDO, has a growing winemaking presence.
Beyond these PDO appellations, Crete also features six PGI regions: Chania, Rethymno, Lasithi, Kissamos, Heraklion, and Crete itself.
Crete has preserved many unique local grape varieties since ancient times. Even those that are also found elsewhere in Greece have developed distinct characteristics due to centuries of isolation.
During the early years of Crete’s modern wine renaissance, many winemakers who had studied in Europe returned with knowledge—but also with international grape varieties, which they initially favored over indigenous ones. However, it didn’t take long for Crete, like the rest of Greece, to realize that its global reputation would be better built on its exclusive, native grapes. As a result, winemakers shifted their focus back to local varieties, often blending them successfully with international grapes.
Notable Cretan Grape Varieties
White Grapes
•Vilana – The star of Crete’s white varieties. It produces light, aromatic wines with good acidity, making it the perfect choice for a hot summer day.
•Vidiano – A grape known for its full-bodied, rich, and buttery wines with bright apricot aromas. The Vidiano I tasted felt surprisingly full-bodied despite being only 12% ABV. It also had a smoothness reminiscent of malolactic fermentation, though none was used. Vidiano is often called the “Greek Viognier.”
•Dafni – Produces light white wines with a rare laurel aroma—hence its name, which means “laurel” in Greek.
•Muscat of Spina – A local Muscat clone with very high acidity and exceptionally thin skin. It creates refreshing, delicately aromatic dry wines.
•Malvasia di Candia – A clone of Malvasia that once brought Crete worldwide fame during the Middle Ages. Today, it is used for both dry and sweet aromatic wines.
•Plyto – An ancient variety that was nearly extinct but has recently been reintroduced with promising results.
Red Grapes
Liatiko – A fascinating variety with relatively low pigment, resulting in pale-colored wines. It has moderate and very soft tannins but high sugar content, leading to high alcohol levels. At the same time, its naturally high acidity keeps the wine fresh. Liatiko offers bright aromas of red fruits, figs, nuts, and leather. With skilled winemaking, it produces a full-bodied yet refreshing wine.
Kotsifali – A soft, low-tannin, high-alcohol wine with cherry and prune aromas, often likened to Greek Merlot. It thrives particularly well in the central regions of the island, including PDO Peza and Arhanes.
Mandilari – A native Cretan variety known for its high tannins and robust structure. It is often used in blends to add body and depth.
Romeiko – An indigenous Greek variety found on Crete and several Cycladic islands. Its name means “from Greece.” Romeiko is high-yielding and late-ripening, with high sugar levels that result in naturally high-alcohol wines.
One of its unusual traits is its weak and unstable pigmentation—even within the same vine, grape clusters can vary in color. Romeiko is used to produce red, white, and rosé wines, though today, it is often blended with other varieties that offer more complexity.
Until recently, Romeiko was the dominant variety on Crete, particularly in the Chania region. Traditionally, it was used to make, a high-alcohol wine similar to Sherry. Marouvas undergoes prolonged aging in old, large barrels, with new wine added each year to replenish the supply. This process results in significant oxidation, giving the wine its distinct character.
My Personal Encounters with Cretan Wines
Now, let’s talk about some of Crete’s wineries.
Titakis Winery – PDO Peza
Located in the heart of PDO Peza, Titakis is a family-run winery founded in the mid-20th century, now managed by the third generation of winemakers. I had a fascinating and insightful conversation with Maria Titakis, the owner and winemaker, about grape varieties, winemaking techniques, and future plans. I also got a behind-the-scenes look at the winery.
Titakis cultivates both local and international grape varieties, crafting interesting blends. Their portfolio includes a wide range of wines—whites, rosés, and reds—ranging from light, young, and refreshing to full-bodied, mature, and complex.
Below, I share a selection of the wines I tasted during my visit, which provide a snapshot of their diverse range:
Delogo White: A blend of Vilana (85%) and Sauvignon Blanc (15%). This light and invigorating wine exudes citrus and tropical fruit aromas. Its refreshingly crisp nature makes it the ideal companion on scorching days.
Moscato Spinas: A light and refreshing wine, intentionally crafted to be delicate. Given the hot climate, maintaining good acidity and moderate alcohol levels can be challenging. To achieve this balance, the winery harvests Muscat grapes early—by mid-August—just when they lose the grassy taste of unripe fruit. The result is a beautifully aromatic wine with notes of roses, lemon blossom, mint, and green apples.
Delogo Rosé: A harmonious blend of Kotsifali (60%), Mandilari (30%), and Merlot (10%). Its radiant hue mirrors its invigorating acidity, while the palate is greeted by the fruity symphony of cherries, plums, and pomegranate.
Asteroza Rosé: A blend of Vidiano (80%) and Syrah (20%), combining a white and a red grape in an unconventional way. Traditionally, rosé is made from red grapes, with color and tannin levels controlled by skin maceration time before fermentation. In the case of sparkling rosé, red and white wines are blended post-fermentation. However, fermenting red and white grapes together is rare—but not unheard of. This technique allows for a unique fusion of aromas that wouldn’t normally be found in the same wine.
I previously discussed a similar Spanish winemaking style, Clarete, in my article about claret. I really enjoyed this Cretan version. It’s a medium-bodied rosé with refreshing acidity, high minerality, and aromas of red fruits, citrus, herbs, and spices.
As a matter of fact, plenty of good different roses are made in Crete. They are excellent alternative to heavy reds, especially in Crete’s hot summers, where they pair beautifully with lamb.
Get back to white wines.
Vidiano: A pure expression of 100% Vidiano, this wine captivated me with its rich, velvety texture. Bursting with aromas of apricots, peaches, pears, and floral notes, it harmonizes these flavors with a vibrant minerality and refreshing acidity. Interestingly, its 12% alcohol content imparts a full-bodied sensation, mimicking the character of wines subjected to malolactic fermentation.
Impetus dry white: A blend of 90% Vidiano and 10% Malvasia Aromatica, this wine enjoys four months of aging in French oak. Boasting a full-bodied profile at 12.5% ABV, it presents a captivating melody of mead, peach, pear, nuts, and butter notes. With the potential to evolve further, this wine promises an exciting aging journey.
Red Wines
Merlot-Syrah Blend: This medium-bodied blend combines 60% Merlot with 40% Syrah, offering supple tannins and an aromatic tapestry of cherries, plums, and spices.
Impetus Dry Red: An assembly of Kotsifali (60%), Merlot (20%), and Syrah (20%), this wine ages for 12 months in French oak. Boasting a robust 14% ABV, it envelops the senses with an intense interplay of cherries, plums, figs, and spices. This powerful and impressive wine leaves a lasting impression.
My journey through Titakis Winery was a delightful introduction to Crete’s diverse vinicultural treasures, highlighting their commitment to showcasing both indigenous and international grape varieties in their authentic expressions.
Lyrarakis Winery – South of PDO Peza
Located slightly further south, Lyrarakis is a winery designed to accommodate a high volume of visitors. It boasts a large, elegant tasting room, but there’s no direct access to the winemaking process or an opportunity to speak with the winemakers in depth. Instead, waitstaff bring the wines to your table and read descriptions from a list.
If you’re looking for a relaxed setting to enjoy wine with friends, this is a great spot. However, if you’re seeking deeper insight into the winemaking process, this may not be the place. That said, their wines are absolutely worth trying.
Lyrarakis is a large winery that works with a diverse range of grape varieties—primarily local, with a few international ones. They produce both single-varietal wines and blends.
The wines themselves undoubtedly warrant exploration. The array of pure-varietal whites — Vidiano, Dafni, and Muscat of Spina — pleases the senses with their light, aromatic nature and refreshing acidity.
A rose crafted from Merlot and Liatiko unfolds as a vivid and exceptionally fruity offering.
The Syrah/Kotsifali blend boasts a deep, full-bodied red wine imbued with soft tannins, having spent 18 months in oak barrels, showcasing its potential for aging.
One particularly interesting wine I tried was an eight-year-old, single-varietal Mandilari.
Mandilari is known for its high tannins and is rarely used for single-varietal wines. However, for this wine, the grapes are grown at an elevation of 500 meters in a vineyard with extremely low yields, resulting in an intensely concentrated wine. It requires long aging, but the end result is bold, deeply structured, and full of mature tannins. A fantastic example of what this powerful variety can achieve under the right conditions.
Toplou Monastery Winery – Sitia, Eastern Crete
Toplou is a functioning monastery, founded in the 14th century, with a long and turbulent history of destruction, restoration, and resistance against various occupiers. Over the centuries, it has also played a crucial role in preserving Cretan culture.
Like many Greek and European monasteries, Toplou monks have cultivated vines and produced wine for their own needs for centuries. By the 1990s, the monastery still owned vineyards with high-quality, old vines. Recognizing their potential, Abbot Filotheos Spanoudakis established a modern winery, which today produces some truly outstanding wines.
The Sitia region is famous for Liatiko, and the location of the monastery provides the ideal conditions for this grape. Here, at the far eastern end of the island, the protective mountains are lower, exposing the vineyards to hotter winds from Africa. At the same time, the soil is poor—perfect for high-quality grape cultivation. However, cooling winds from the Aegean Sea help maintain acidity, allowing Liatiko to develop both high sugar content and aromatic complexity.
The monastery produces both dry and sweet wines from Liatiko:
Sweet Liatiko – Made by sun-drying the grapes after harvest. This process increases the sugar concentration so much that the fermentation stops naturally before all the sugar is converted into alcohol, resulting in a naturally sweet wine.
Dry Liatiko – Full-bodied yet fresh and aromatic, with a light and elegant taste despite its depth.
Chania – Western End of the Island
Karavitakis Vineyard
A family winery now in its fourth generation, Karavitakis Vineyard has been revitalized under the leadership of Manolis Karavitakis. After studying in Athens and Italy, Manolis introduced modern winemaking techniques while reaffirming the importance of local Cretan grape varieties. He skillfully integrates these indigenous varieties with international ones, producing wines that are not only exceptional but also deeply rooted in Cretan terroir.
Our conversation about Cretan viniculture was both engaging and informative—I left with a double satisfaction: from the wines and from the discussion.
Among the highlights:
The best Moschato I tried on Crete – Moschato Spinas from old vines grown at 400 meters and higher. A beautifully delicate and aromatic wine, incredibly refreshing, with an elegance that completely masks its 13.5% ABV. This is an ideal expression of Muscat, perfectly showcasing what Crete can offer.
Kompsos Vidiano/ Assyrtiko/ Malvasia: A harmonious blend, each variety contributes distinct elements. Vidiano imparts peachy notes, Assyrtiko lends structure and acidity, and Malvasia introduces floral nuances. This symphony culminates in a gently aromatic and refreshing composition (again, you never say it is13.5% abv).
Kompsos Liatiko Rose: An exquisite rose, this wine showcases Liatiko’s low tannins and high acidity. Extracted from old vines, it boasts intensified flavors. The aromatic dance of red fruits and white flowers gracefully merges with delicate minerality and citrus undertones.
The Kotsifali Mavrotragano blend combines Cretan Kotsifali (85%) with Mavrotragano (15%), an ancient Santorini variety. Mavrotragano, once exclusive to Santorini, has found its way to Crete due to its resurgence. This grape produces a deep-red wine with strong tannins, suitable for oak aging. The result is a deep-ruby wine with red fruit aromas and smooth tannins. Six months in French oak add structure and a touch of vanilla, creating a pleasant wine.
Elia 2016 – A blend of Syrah (70%), Grenache (20%), and Carignan (10%), reminiscent of Languedoc-style wines. The vineyard that produces the grapes for this wine is located on hills near the legendary 3,000-year-old olive tree of Vouves.
The yield is kept exceptionally low—below 2.5 kg per vine—which results in a deeply concentrated wine. Each grape variety is aged separately for 12 months in French oak, and the final blend is meticulously adjusted each year based on taste. A stunning wine, rich and beautifully structured.
Marouvas – I also had the chance to try the traditional sun-dried Romeiko dessert wine, which I previously mentioned. A fascinating example of Crete’s historic winemaking traditions.
Manousakis Winery
The second winery in the Chania region is Manousakis Winery, whose main wine line is called Nostos, meaning “returning home.”
The story behind this winery is remarkable. Ted Manousakis, its founder, was born in Crete but moved to the U.S. as a child. After building a successful career in an industry unrelated to wine, he found himself longing for his homeland. In 1993, he returned to Crete and planted his first vines—not personally, of course, but with a dedicated team of experts.
His winemaker chose Southern French grape varieties—Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Roussanne—which remain the core of the winery’s production today, though some Greek varieties have been added over time.
Much like Lyrarakis, the tasting room at Manousakis is designed for relaxed enjoyment rather than in-depth discussions with the winemaker. It’s a wonderful place for a leisurely drink in a picturesque setting, but not ideal for those seeking detailed technical insights.
That said, the wines are undeniably excellent, even if they don’t fully capture the uniqueness of Cretan terroir.
Wines I tried:
Nostos Assyrtiko: A splendid Assyrtiko, full-bodied with bright notes of peaches, citrus, good minerality, and a hint of the sea.
Nostos Muscat of Spina: A refreshing wine with hints of white flowers, peaches, and herbs, perfect for appetizers.
Nostos Roussanne: Classic southern Rhône style, well-aged in oak, and quite enjoyable.
Rose Grenache-Syrah: A Mediterranean-style rose with vibrant flavors of strawberry, rose, and grenadine.
Grenache: A good representation of the variety.
Two wines stood out, the classic South Rhone – style blends:
GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre) Blend – Full-bodied, intense, yet soft and aromatic. Oak aging provides great structure, while flavors of black fruits, leather, and ripe tannins create a rich, layered experience.
GSM with Roussanne – Everything I loved about the previous wine, but with added complexity from Roussanne. This variety introduces elegant floral and honeyed notes, enriching the blend and making it even more intriguing. A truly beautiful wine.
As Crete’s wine scene continues to evolve, the island is becoming an increasingly attractive destination for wine lovers. Its unique grape varieties, combined with modern expertise and centuries-old traditions, make it a region worth exploring.
So, keep an eye out for Cretan wines in your local stores, and if you ever visit the island, make sure to dedicate time to discovering its wineries. You won’t be disappointed!
For the details about viniculture mainland Greece, from northern Macedonia down to the southern Peloponnese, click here.
