Video about Tannat on my YouTube channel.
April 14 marks Tannat Day. If you like enjoying robust, full-bodied red wines, but you’re not yet familiar with this grape variety now is the time to take note of Tannat. Over the past two decades the presence of this grape in the global wine market has been steadily increasing.
The primary varietal characteristic of Tannat is its exceptionally high level of tannins, which is directly reflected in its name. In France, in its place of origin, Tannat traditionally is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to mitigate the astringency of its tannins. Both of these Cabernets are known as high-tannin varieties, so that clearly illustrates this property of Tannat.
In fact, Tannat boasts a remarkably high content of phenolic compounds, making it the grape variety with the highest known levels among popular grape varieties. This is because of its thick skin and numerous pips, which Tannat has more of per berry compared to other varieties. These compounds serve as antioxidants, contributing to Tannat’s reputation as the healthiest wine in the world.
Despite its high tannin levels, Tannat is also rich of pigments, acid, and sugar. This results in a powerful, full-bodied, and deeply colored (“black”) wine that requires aging, and responds exceptionally well to it.
Originating in France, Tannat has uniquely evolved to become the hallmark grape of Uruguay, mirroring the trajectories of Malbec and Carménère in Argentina and Chile, respectively. France, the prolific creator of grape varieties, has generously shared its vinicultural legacy with the world.
The birthplace of Tannat is the French South-West, nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, a region steeped in vinicultural history dating back to Roman times, if not earlier. In the 17th and 18th centuries, this area supplied wines (including Tannat) to the royal court, gaining appreciation for its exceptional quality.
This is another sad tale of the harsh realities and injustices of commerce. During those times, the South-West region produced charming wines of far better quality than Bordeaux. Wines of South-West had already gained fame while Bordeaux wines were just beginning to make their baby steps to the market. However, Bordeaux held the key marine port and had controlled all trade routes in the Western France. This gave Bordeaux the power to promote its own wines which were much weaker at the time, and factually suppress trading of the South-West wines.
Bordeaux blocked shipping of South-West wines until all of its own were sold. Bordeaux blended its wine with that of the South-West; they required smaller shipping barrels from them, and imposed other unfavorable conditions. Over time, the viticulture of the South-West region weakened considerably, and in the 19th century nearly wiped out by the phylloxera epidemic (the region plainly lacked money to finance recovery). Only in the late 20th century the South-West region began to experience a revival.
Let’s get back to Tannat. In modern France, it is grown predominantly south of the Garonne River, with Madiran region being the epicenter of French Tannat. In the late 20th century, as the South-West restored its winemaking, Madiran winemakers faced the challenge of adapting Tannat’s robust tannins to please consumer palates accustomed to the softer tones of Merlot or Syrah.
Traditionally, oak barrel aging played a role in smoothing and rounding Tannat’s tannins by facilitating controlled oxidation. Oxygen is both a wine’s worst enemy and its necessary component. While free access to oxygen can turn ethanol into acetic acid, transforming wine into vinegar, a certain amount of oxygen is necessary for the oxidation of various compounds, contributing to the wine’s complex flavor. This controlled oxidation is particularly crucial for smoothing out tannins in wine. Traditionally, oak barrels are the primary method for delivering right amount of oxygen to the wine. Of course, in addition to just releasing oxygen to the wine, oak makes a distinct influence to the flavor profile.
In the case of Madiran wines, aging in oak barrels has been a longstanding tradition, with a minimum aging requirement of 20 months in barrels. However, this time may not suffice for mitigating the robust tannins of Tannat grapes.
In 1990, Madiran winemaker Patrick Ducournau pioneered the technique of micro-oxygenation, known as “microbullage” in France. This innovative method involves controlled oxygen saturation of wine at various stages of the winemaking process. Micro-oxygenation serves to stabilize color, soften tannins, enhance taste, and improve overall wine quality. This technique has gained widespread adoption and is now employed not only in the South-West of France but also in Bordeaux and other wine-producing regions worldwide, particularly for high-tannin grape varieties.
The most famous French Tannat is produced in Madiran AC. By the law, Madiran wines must contain at least 60% of Tannat. It can be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. However, Madiran winemakers have enhanced their wines significantly by employing micro-oxygenation. In fact, the commission of the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité has proposed increasing the minimum amount of Tannat to 80%, considering that many winemakers already make 100% Tannat wines of the great quality.
Adjacent appellations such as Irouléguy, Tursan, and Béarn also focus in Tannat, often blending it with both Cabernets. Beyond the confines of AOC regulations, the South-West offers IGP Tannat and even noteworthy examples under the Vin de France classification.
French Tannat is known by its robust nature, presenting as a dark, powerful wine with elevated tannins, high acidity, and an aromatic profile dominated by red fruit, especially strawberry, accompanied by subtle notes of tobacco, cinnamon, and wood.
Also, the South-West crafts tannat-based vibrant, full-bodied rosés, further demonstrating the versatility of this distinctive grape.
In 1870, Pascual Harriague, a Basque pioneer, embarked on a journey from France to Uruguay, carrying with him the vines of Tannat. Planting these vines near Salto in the north of Uruguay, Harriague set the foundation for Tannat’s dominance as the national grape variety of Uruguay. Presently, approximately 40% of all grapes in Uruguay are Tannat, and about half of the world’s Tannat cultivation being of Uruguayan soil. France’s share is about 30%. For a long time, Tannat in Uruguay was known under the name Harriague, in honor of its Uruguayan originator. Pascual Harriague passed on April 14, 1894, and the National Vinicultural Institute of Uruguay designated April 14 as Tannat Day, recognizing the grape’s profound significance to the nation’s vinicultural heritage, and honoring Pascual Harriague.
Over the course of 150 years, Uruguay’s warmer climate and the appearance of new clones have markedly altered the taste profile of Uruguayan Tannat comparing to its French sister. While retaining its distinctive depth and full-bodied nature, Uruguayan Tannat exhibits softer tannins and lower acidity. The predominant aroma is that of black fruits, such as blackberry and black plum. It is complemented by notes of licorice, black chocolate, spices, and smoke. The taste profile leans towards fruitiness, emblematical to the New World style.
In Uruguay, Tannat frequently blended with Pinot Noir and Merlot, resulting in soft and fruit-forward wines.
For a long time, Uruguay produced only “house” wine, which didn’t make it to the global market due to its low quality. However, in the 21st century, the standards of worldwide winemaking have risen, and Uruguay is no exception. The quality of Uruguayan wines is steadily improving, and their presence in the global market is on the rise.
Approximately 80% of the world’s Tannat vines are grown in Uruguay and France. The remainder is dispersed among Argentina, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, as well as Australia, the USA, Italy, and South Africa. It often used in blends.
Tannat, full-bodied and naturally tannic wine, is the ideal companion to high-protein, hearty dishes, such as steak, beef cassoulet, roasted lamb, and duck confit —a perfect complement to the gastronomic traditions of Gascogne. Aged cheeses also find synergy with Tannat’s robust profile.
For those embracing the lighter allure, the Tannat rosé offers delightful sipping alone on a warm summer day, meanwhile it goes well with poultry, fish, and salads.
Prozit!
