Video about Wines of Santorini on my YouTube channel.
For a comprehensive exploration of Greek viticulture, peruse the insights shared here. Now, let’s turn our focus to Santorini, the Aegean island renowned for its ancient vineyards and extraordinary viniculture, which dates back thousands of years.
Winemaking on Santorini began around 5,000 years ago, much like in other parts of Greece. However, Santorini was far luckier than the rest of the country when it comes to the historical preservation of its viniculture.
During the Crusades, Santorini fell under Venetian rule, and the Venetians took control of winemaking, organizing exports to Europe—especially to Italy. Santorini’s wines, particularly the unique Vinsanto, gained fame across the continent.
Under the Ottoman Empire, when much of Greece’s viniculture suffered due to Muslim alcohol restrictions, Santorini received special permission to continue wine production and trade. The Russian Orthodox Church had declared Vinsanto of Santorini as the official sacramental wine, and demanded a steady supply. The Ottoman rulers valued trade relations with Russia and secured Santorini’s role in winemaking.
Today, Santorini’s ancient vines have drawn the attention of renowned winemakers worldwide. Yet, paradoxically, the biggest threat to the island’s viniculture isn’t climate change or disease—it’s tourism.
Santorini has become a highly popular luxury travel destination, leading to a dramatic rise in land prices. As a result, vineyard land is shrinking, with many estates being replaced by hotels and resorts. The future of Santorini’s viniculture now depends on whether tourists’ love for fine wine can preserve these irreplaceable vineyards before they disappear entirely.
Santorini’s geography plays a crucial role in its viniculture. The island is essentially a massive volcano, and after the catastrophic eruption in the 16th century BC, which devastated the Minoan civilization and wiped out half of the island, Santorini was left covered in volcanic ash.
This volcanic soil is extremely poor in organic matter but rich in minerals. It is highly porous, providing excellent drainage. In addition, it is completely devoid of clay, making it inhospitable to phylloxera, the insect that devastated European vineyards in the 19th century. As a result, Santorini’s vineyards never suffered from the phylloxera epidemic and still boast some of the oldest living vines in the world.
The climate on Santorini is warm with relatively high humidity, but rainfall is scarce, and the little rain that does fall happens only in winter. Freshwater is also extremely limited, with most of it coming from winter rains and fog condensation.
Adding to the challenge are the strong, persistent, salty winds that dry out the vines. However, these extreme conditions come with a unique benefit. The dry, warm climate allows the grapes to accumulate high sugar levels, leading to wines with naturally high alcohol content. At the same time, strong winds slow down other metabolic processes, preserving high acidity, which gives Santorini wines their bright, refreshing character.
Given Santorini’s harsh environment, growing vines using standard trellis systems would be impossible—the strong winds would dry out and destroy the leaves and berries. Instead, local winemakers developed a unique vine training method known as “kouloura”. Vines are bent to form circular baskets that sit close to the ground. This technique protects the leaves and grapes from harsh winds. It also allows moisture from the night dew to be absorbed directly by the roots, compensating for the lack of artificial irrigation, which is not used on the island due to lack of freshwater. As a result, Santorini’s vineyards look unlike any other in the world—instead of neat rows of vines, the landscape is covered in low, coiled, basket-like formations.
Due to the volcanic soil and extreme dryness, vines on Santorini need a deep and well-developed root system to survive. Over time, however, the above-ground portion of the vine loses productivity. Instead of replanting, winemakers cut the aerial part and allow a new vine to grow from the existing rootstock. The first harvest from a regrown vine happens 2–3 years after cutting. On Santorini, this process occurs about every 75 years. Some vineyards have documented five or more consecutive regrowth cycles, meaning many vines are hundreds of years old, making them the oldest in the world
Santorini’s vineyards are not only ancient but also are barely in order. In earlier times, vineyard owners did not plant in organized systems, so different grape varieties often grow next to each other. As a result, during the harvest, winemakers must inspect each vine individually to determine its variety and ripeness. Because the vines are woven into baskets and sit close to the ground, mechanical harvesting is impossible anyway. Every grape must be handpicked, making the harvest a labor-intensive process.
Santorini’s grape varieties are as distinctive as its volcanic terroir.
The dominant variety of Santorini viniculture is Assyrtiko. This ancient white grape originates from Santorini and remains its most widely planted variety, covering 70% of the island’s vineyards. While Assyrtiko is now cultivated in other parts of Greece and the Aegean islands, it thrives best in its birthplace. What makes Assyrtiko unique? It maintains high acidity even when fully ripe. It accumulates high sugar levels, allowing for the production of both intensely flavored dry wines and lusciously sweet dessert wines. Dry Assyrtiko wines are full-bodied, with vibrant citrus aromas, striking minerality, and good aging potential.
Santorini’s vineyards also grow two other traditional white varieties, primarily used in blends with Assyrtiko. Aidani – Indigenous to Santorini, though also grown on other Aegean islands, this variety produces medium-bodied wines with a delicate floral aroma. Athiri – more commonly found on Rhodes, with some plantings on Santorini. Athiri produces medium-bodied wines with fresh lemony notes. On Santorini, both Aidani and Athiri are primarily used in sweet and dry blends with Assyrtiko, adding complexity and softening its intense acidity.
Although white wines dominate Santorini’s production, about 20% of the island’s vineyards are dedicated to red grape varieties.
Once on the brink of extinction, Mavrotragano is now being revived by modern winemakers. This deeply colored red grape variety produces wines with intense tannins and structured, full-bodied profile, making them well-suited for oak aging. It is used for both dry and sweet wines.
Another ancient variety, Mandilaria, is widely cultivated throughout the Aegean region. On Santorini, it is used mainly for medium-bodied red wines with deep color, sweet wines and blended wines, often complementing Mavrotragano.
Santorini is renowned for its exceptional white wines, both dry and sweet. The island’s volcanic soil and unique climate contribute to the distinct character of these wines.
There are three main wine types under the OPAP (Greek name for EU PDO category – wines with protected designation of origin) Santorini designation: Santorini, Nykteri, and Vinsanto.
Wines labeled “Santorini” are dry whites made from at least 75% Assyrtiko, with the remaining 25% typically composed of Athiri and Aidani. These wines are full-bodied, with high acidity and an intense, mineral-driven taste, giving them excellent aging potential.
A notable characteristic of Assyrtiko is its ability to combine well with oak, so some Santorini wines are fermented in oak barrels, adding layers of complexity and texture.
Nykteri is another dry white wine, sharing the same grape composition as Santorini wines, but standing out as one of the richest and most complex white wines of the island.
The name “Nykteri” means “nocturnal”, as, traditionally, grapes for this wine were harvested at night and immediately crushed and pressed to preserve their fresh, bright flavors. While nighttime harvesting is no longer mandatory, many winemakers maintain this tradition.
Nykteri is initially fermented in stainless steel cisterns, with the skins left in the fermenting juice during the early stages. After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels for 3 to 10 months, giving it enhanced aromatics, including exotic fruits and honeysuckle.
One of Santorini’s most distinctive wines, produced since ancient times, is the sweet wine Vinsanto.
Vinsanto became globally famous in the Middle Ages, when Santorini was under Venetian control. The Venetians exported this wine throughout Europe, and its name evolved from “Vino di Santo” (meaning “Wine of Santorini”).
Vinsanto is crafted from late-harvest grapes, which are further sun-dried for one to two weeks to concentrate their natural sugars. The wine must contain at least 51% Assyrtiko, with the remaining part typically consisting of Athiri and Aidani.
After fermentation, Vinsanto is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of one year, though most winemakers extend this for several years to enhance its depth and complexity. The result is a golden-amber wine with intense aromas of dried fruits, raisins, and sweet spices. (For insights into diverse approaches in sweet wine production, refer here.)
A similar-sounding wine, Vin Santo or Vino Santo, is also made in Italy, primarily in Tuscany. While both wines are sweet and involve grape drying, they differ in several ways. Vin Santo is made from different grape varieties, mainly Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia Bianca. Drying methods differ: In Tuscany, grapes are dried under a roof, while in Santorini, they are sun-dried outdoors. The origin of Italian name is also different, it means “Holy Wine”.
For centuries, Italy widely used the name “Vinsanto”, identical to Santorini’s historic wine, creating market confusion and overshadowing Santorini’s reputation. However, in 2002, the European Union officially ruled in favor of Santorini, prohibiting Italian winemakers from using the Vinsanto name.
Despite its small size, Santorini is home to numerous wineries, each with its own character and appeal. Today, I will focus on two contrasting wineries—the largest and most touristy, and one that, in my opinion, stands out as particularly unique and interesting.
Santo Wines is the largest, most well-known, and most visited winery on Santorini.
It is featured prominently in all guidebooks, making it a must-visit for many tourists. The winery offers up to 18 different wines for tasting, making it one of the most extensive sampling experiences on the island.
However, in my opinion, Santo Wines is overhyped—similar to many large-scale commercial wineries. The experience is impersonal—instead of guided tastings, visitors are given a tray of glasses and a list of wines, with little opportunity to discuss the wines with knowledgeable staff. While the scenic décor and sheer number of samples might attract tourists, the wines themselves failed to impress me. Although, I cannot say anything bad about them either.
If you are looking for a relaxed tasting with a breathtaking view, Santo Wines delivers. But if you seek a more engaging, in-depth experience, there are better options on the island.
Just 15 minutes walking from Santo Wines, Venetsanos Winery offers a completely different experience—one that is more intimate, educational, and rewarding.
This smaller, family-run winery is cozy and inviting, with knowledgeable staff who are always eager to discuss the wines and winemaking techniques. The wine selection is smaller than at Santo Wines, but every wine I tasted here was exceptional. Some of the best Assyrtiko-based Santorini and Nykteri wines I’ve ever tried came from Venetsanos. They also produce an interesting rosé (ITG) and well-crafted red wines.
Venetsanos is not just about good wine and a great view—it also has a fascinating history. Built in 1947, it was the first industrial winery on modern Santorini. Unlike many wineries that catered only to local needs, Venetsanos was designed for export. At the time, Santorini had poor electrical and transportation infrastructure. The vineyards and winery are located on a steep cliff, right above the port where wine shipments departed.
Look at the winding road leading down to the seaside. Today, it is paved and accessible to cars, but back then, it was nothing more than a donkey trail.
Producing wine on such difficult terrain presented many challenges, especially when it came to transferring wine between large cisterns—a process that would have been exhausting and time-consuming without modern pumps.
The Venetsanos family came up with a brilliant solution. The winery was built into the hillside, with each processing stage located on a lower level than the previous one. This multi-level design allowed wine to flow naturally downward by gravity, eliminating the need for manual pumping. Once the wine was ready, it was transported through pipes directly to the port, where it was stored in barrels for shipment (at that time, bottling was not done on the island).
Today, Venetsanos Winery uses modern technology, but the original gravity-flow facility remains open for tours, offering visitors a glimpse into the island’s winemaking past.
If you find yourself in Greece, do visit Santorini, and do explore its unique wines. However, you don’t need to travel to Santorini to enjoy its wines—they are widely available in many wine shops around the world.
