Video about cider on my YouTube channel.
Summer past its peak; rather-ripe apples appeared on a market, this seems like the perfect time to talk about cider, about fresh, sparkling apple cider.
For centuries, this beverage has delighted people. Technologically speaking, cider is essentially an apple wine. In fact, the Germans call their version “Apfelwein,” staying true to its wine-like nature. North Americans, however, have a habit of assigning old European names to unrelated things, while giving new names to the original items. So in North America, unfiltered apple juice is called “cider,” and alcoholic cider is known as “hard cider.”
But we’re focusing on the real deal: alcohol-based cider.
It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly when people first started making cider. After all, if you live surrounded by apple orchards, the idea of fermenting apples probably comes naturally. The earliest written evidence of cider production comes from works like “Geography” by the Greek historian and geographer Strabo (around the end of BC to the beginning of AD) and “Natural History” by the Roman author Pliny the Elder (early AD). Pliny mentions apple wine production in the Mediterranean, while Strabo refers to cider-like beverages being made in regions that now correspond to modern-day France and Spain. Of course, neither France nor Spain existed as countries back then, but that doesn’t affect our story—kingdoms may rise and fall, but people have been making alcoholic beverages for many centuries and will continue to do so.
For a long time, it was believed that cider was unknown in England until William the Conqueror brought both his rule and cider with him in 1066. However, recent research has shown that the Romans, during their early AD expansion, encountered cider in what is now England. Perhaps cider production declined after that, only to experience a resurgence with William the Conqueror’s arrival. So, Spain (along with Portugal), France, and England are considered the original homelands of cider and the keepers of the crafting traditions.
Up until the 11th and 12th centuries, in the apple-growing regions of France, Spain, and Portugal, cider production and consumption were more widespread than grape wine. But over time, wine became the dominant drink. Cider is a more delicate beverage and harder to store than wine, which may have contributed to wine’s rise in popularity. Today, cider is made and enjoyed globally, with varying degrees of popularity. We can even talk about a cider renaissance. While it may not surpass wine, interest in cider is growing, and new varieties are emerging in both traditional cider-making regions and places that haven’t historically produced it.
Today, England leads the world in both cider production and consumption. Other renowned traditional cider regions include northern Spain (Asturias, Galicia, Cantabria, and the Basque Country) and northern France (Normandy and Brittany). However, cider can be found in nearly every part of the world where apples are grown.
Now, let’s talk about apples. Both table apples and special cider apples are used in cider production. Cider apples typically have higher levels of sugar (necessary for alcohol production), tannins (for astringency and aroma intensity), and acidity (to ensure freshness). The tannin and acidity levels vary depending on the variety of apple. Cider makers choose their apples based on local traditions and the intended flavor profile of the cider. Some producers exclusively use cider apples, others use table apples, and some combine the two. Often, a blend of many different varieties is used to achieve a specific taste, although sometimes only one variety is chosen.
England provides an interesting case study in differing traditions. The country is split into two camps when it comes to apple use. West Country producers typically favor cider apples, creating strong, tannic, and aromatic ciders. On the other hand, cider makers in Wales and East England often prefer table apples, resulting in softer, more delicate ciders.
According to regulations, a beverage must be primarily made from apples in order to be labeled as cider. However, the required percentage of apple content differs across countries. For example, in France, cider must be made entirely from apples. In the U.S., at least 50% of the raw material must be apples, while in England, the minimum requirement is only 35%. Nonetheless, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA), an independent British consumer organization that advocates for traditional alcoholic beverages, argues that real cider should be made from at least 90% apple juice, with the remainder being other fruits or berries, such as pears.
Pears, however, stand on their own in the cider world. England, France, and Spain traditionally produce a pear-based equivalent of cider known as perry (or poiré in France, and perada in Spain). These days, other countries in Europe and the New World also produce perry, often labeling it as “pear cider” or “perry cider,” though purists in the homeland of perry aren’t particularly fond of these terms. I tend to agree—if there’s already a unique name for it, no reason to simplify or unify it.
Cider is essentially an apple wine, so it is made using winemaking techniques. Apples are harvested from trees, ground into a puree, and then pressed for juice. This juice is fermented in vats, either with wild yeast strains present on the apples or by adding specific yeast strains. The fermentation process must be carried out at a low temperature, between 4–15°C, to preserve the delicate apple aromas—similar to how white wine is made. Due to the low temperature, fermentation takes longer, usually around three to six months. Shortly before all the sugar is consumed by the yeast, the cider is transferred from the lees to clean vats, allowing fermentation to continue. This stage gives the cider its light carbonation. Once fermentation is complete, the cider is filtered, bottled, and ready for consumption.
This is the basic method for cider production, but certain modifications may be made depending on the type of cider being produced.
Cider is incredibly versatile, offering something for every taste.
The alcohol content can range anywhere from 1% to 13% ABV. In some countries, cider alcohol levels are regulated—Canada, for instance, mandates that cider must be between 2.5% and 13% ABV. In other places, the alcohol content depends on local traditions and the producer’s preferences.
Cider can be either clear or cloudy, depending on the filtration process before fermentation and the varieties of apples used. Its color can also vary dramatically, from nearly colorless to deep brown, with all shades of gold in between.
In terms of sweetness, ciders range from bone-dry to quite sweet. Mass-market ciders tend to be sweeter, while traditional and craft ciders are often drier.
Most ciders are ready to drink soon after fermentation ends. They’re typically consumed young, and the year of the harvest isn’t displayed on the label because it’s assumed to be the most recent harvest. However, some ciders may age for up to three years, occasionally in oak barrels. For instance, aging in oak barrels is traditional for Basque ciders. When ciders are aged, the harvest year is often shown on the label.
Ciders can be still, like many Basque ciders, but the majority are carbonated. Mass-market ciders typically get their sparkling from added CO2. The most traditional approach to making light bubbles is through a natural secondary fermentation in a closed vat. Sometimes sugar is added at this stage to increase carbonation, following the same tank method used for sparkling wines like Prosecco. Some high-quality ciders are even produced using the traditional champagne method.
Asturian cider producers in Spain have a unique method for creating bubbles. Asturias is responsible for around 80% of all Spanish cider, with a history spanning at least twenty centuries. Most Asturian ciders are still, but the traditional serving method introduces bubbles to the glass—though they don’t last long. This ritual, known as escanciar un culín, involves pouring the cider from the highest possible height, with the bottle held high in one hand and the glass held low in the other.
Ciders with added flavors are also quite popular. Fruit ciders, for example, are made by adding fruit or berry juice during or after fermentation. Common flavors include cherry, blueberry, and cranberry, but producers are only limited by their imagination.
Hop cider is another variation, where hops are added during fermentation. Hop gives the cider a pleasant bitterness.
Spiced ciders are made by adding spices at different stages of production—before, during, or after fermentation.
Every October, the American market sees a flood of Pumpkin hard ciders that contain pumpkin juice and a blend of traditional pumpkin pie spices like cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and ginger. These ciders are both fruity (if you count pumpkin as a fruit!) and spicy, capturing the flavors of autumn.
Ice cider, also known as apple ice wine or cidre de glace, has been around since 1989. It was first created by a Quebec winemakers, inspired by the production of grape ice wine. Since then, the idea has spread to other countries with suitable climates for its production. A long, cold winter is essential for making ice cider, which is why it’s now produced not only in Canada but also in parts of Europe and the USA, particularly in Vermont.
The classic method for making ice cider is called cryoextraction. In this process, apples are left on the trees until temperatures drop below 0°C. As they are exposed to sun, wind, and cold, the apples lose water while concentrating their sugars and aromatic compounds. When the temperature falls to around -15°C and stays that way for at least three days, the apples are harvested, pressed, and the concentrated juice is collected. This juice is then fermented at low temperatures for about six months. The process is labor-intensive, especially the harvesting. In some cases, apples are picked in the fall and stored on outdoor shelves, making the winter harvesting a bit easier.
However, a more common method is cryoconcentration. In this approach, apples are harvested in the fall and stored until winter. Once pressed, the juice is left outside for about six months. As the water in the juice slowly freezes, ice crystals form at the top while the sugar-concentrated juice sinks to the bottom. The ice is discarded, and the juice is then fermented at low temperatures for around half a year.
The end result is a sweet, highly aromatic cider with an alcohol content of 9-13% ABV. Because the process is labor-intensive and requires about five times more apples than regular cider production, ice cider tends to be quite expensive.
Thus, ciders are incredibly versatile, offering a wide range of flavors and styles to suit any preference. From sweet to dry, still to sparkling, there’s something for everyone. Choose cider according to your own taste and enjoy your summer!
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