Crémant – shy sisters of Champagne

Cremant de Bourgogne

Do you love a good sparkling wine but aren’t a fan of Champagne’s insane prices? Looking for high-quality bubbles with a bit more diversity? Consider turning your attention to Crémant.

Crémant refers to a group of French (mostly French) sparkling wines produced in regions other than Champagne, but made using the same Traditional Method as Champagne.

The key words here are “Traditional Method”. This method’s crucial feature is the secondary fermentation, which occurs in the same bottle that eventually the consumer will buy. This step is essential for creating the bubbles that make the wine sparkling. The secondary fermentation is followed by lees maturation, which gives the wine a more complex taste and results in finer, longer-lasting bubbles. You can find all the details about the Traditional Method of sparkling wine production in the Champagne article.

The Traditional Method was developed in Champagne. It was originally called “Methode Champenoise”, but in 1994, Champagne winemakers claimed this name exclusively for their own use, leaving the term “Traditional Method” for others. Of course, the technology itself isn’t unique to Champagne; many high-quality sparkling wines are made this way. I will talk about some of them separately, but today my story is about Crémant.

The name Crémant also has its origins in Champagne, where it was once used for wines with pressure in the bottle of 2-3 atm, lower than standard Champagne (5-6 atm). These wines are softer and gentler, and the name “Crémant” means “creamy”. Such wines were produced in significantly smaller quantities than traditional Champagne.

Since the end of the 19th century, other French regions began actively producing sparkling wines using the Traditional Method. Since 1891, the name “Champagne” was reserved exclusively for wine from the Champagne region. As a result, other regions sought to distinguish their high-quality sparkling wines from the generic term “Mousseux”, commonly used for sparkling wine. They chose the name “Crémant”, even though their wines had the standard pressure in the bottles of 5-6 atm.
In 1975, Crémant de Loire was granted AOC status, followed by Crémant d’Alsace and Crémant de Bourgogne in 1976, with other regions following. During the 1980s, when Champagne winemakers started fighting for exclusive rights to the term “Methode Champenoise”, producers of Crémant in other French regions proposed a trade-off: Champagne could reserve the term “Methode Champenoise” for itself, but it would have to relinquish the use of the term “Crémant” for its low-pressure wines, to avoid any confusion. Champagne agreed.

By that time, the once-rare Crémant in Champagne was nearly extinct, so the agreement looks win-win. However, Mumm still produces a low-pressure wine called “Mumm de Cramant”, which it has been making since 1882. It was originally called “Crémant de Cramant”. It is confusing, but Cramant is actually the name of a village with Grand Cru vineyards where Mumm grows grapes for this wine.

Today, eight French regions have AOC status for Crémant production:
Crémant de Bourgogne
– Crémant d’Alsace
– Crémant de Limoux
– Crémant de Loire
– Crémant de Bordeaux
– Crémant de Die
– Crémant du Jura
– Crémant de Savoie

Because, unlike Champagne, the term “Crémant” is not reserved for French wines, it can also be produced in other European countries, meeting specific conditions. Today, you can find Crémant de Luxembourg and Crémant de Wallonie (from Belgium) on the market.

The technological requirements for producing Crémant are only slightly less strict than those for producing Champagne. For example, for both Champagne and Crémant only hand harvesting of grapes is allowed, and only whole bunch pressing is permitted, and there is a strict yeald limit (no more than 100 liters of juice from 150 kg of berries). Additionally, the Traditional Method must be used, with a minimum of 9 months on the lees, among other regulations. In fact, the primary difference lies in the required time on the lees. Non-vintage Champagne must age on the lees for a minimum of 12 months, while vintage Champagne requires 3 years, although most producers extend this time significantly.

These are the minimal requirements common to all Crémant, but some AOCs impose even stricter rules.

Each Crémant-producing region uses its own grape varieties, contributing to the diversity within the Crémant world. Let’s take a closer look at what each region has to offer for bubble lovers.

On international market, the most commonly encountered Crémant wines are from Alsace, Burgundy, Limoux, and the Loire Valley. These regions produce and export significant quantities, making their wines widely available across the globe. We’ll begin by exploring these regions.

Crémant de Bourgogne

If you appreciate the varietal character of Champagne, but aren’t a fan of its unappealing prices, then Crémant de Bourgogne deserves your attention.

Burgundy, the region just south of Champagne, shares a similar climate and soil composition with its northern neighbor. As the birthplace of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Burgundy primarily grows these two varieties. It’s no surprise, then, that Burgundy’s Crémant is predominantly made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — the same grapes that form the base of Champagne. This makes Crémant de Bourgogne and Champagne twin-sister wines in many respects.

In addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which must comprise at least 30% of Crémant de Bourgogne blends, other permitted varieties include Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, and Melon de Bourgogne. For rosé Crémant, besides main Pinot noir, Gamay can also be used, though it cannot exceed 20% of the blend.

White Crémant de Bourgogne is known for its prominent aromas of flowers and citrus, with good minerality and refreshing acidity.
Crémant Blanc de Blancs (made exclusively from white grape varieties) offers aromas of white flowers, citrus, and green apples, with notes of apricot and peach.
Crémant Blanc de Noirs (primarily Pinot Noir with possible Gamay inclusion) features red fruit aromas such as cherry, black currant, and strawberry, accented with honey and nutmeg notes. Rosé versions carry similar but softer flavor profiles.

While the minimum lees aging requirement for Crémant de Bourgogne is 9 months, the finest examples from Burgundy are often aged on lees for 6 years or more. This extended aging gives the wines fine, persistent bubbles that can stream from your glass for hours.

Although Crémant de Bourgogne is produced throughout the region, the taste varies significantly depending on the exact location. This is typical of all Burgundian wines, as Burgundy is a region where the influence of terroir can be fully appreciated. Crémant from northern Chablis, for instance, tends to be strict, icy, elegant, and more expensive, whereas the Crémant from Côte Chalonnaise is fruitier and softer.

Burgundy began producing sparkling wines almost at the start of the 19th century. However, during the 19th century, its specialty was red sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir. This style gradually fell out of fashion, and by the time Crémant de Bourgogne received AOC status in 1975, it applied only to white and rosé wines. Red sparkling wines continued to be produced but under the name Bourgogne Mousseux Rouge.

Crémant d’Alsace

Alsace is the largest producer of quality sparkling wine in France after Champagne. Located in the northern part of the country, at roughly the same latitude as Champagne, Alsace is an ideal region for sparkling wine production.

For white Crémant d’Alsace, winemakers use Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Auxerrois. The primary grape variety is Pinot Blanc, with the others added to enhance the richness and elegance of the wine’s flavor.

White Crémant d’Alsace offers a pleasant, refreshing acidity and aromas of white fruits such as apple and pear, along with peach or apricot, and subtle notes of dried fruits and brioche. The specific aromas depend on the winemaker’s choice of grape varieties. Rosé Crémant d’Alsace and the very rare Blanc de Noir are made exclusively from Pinot Noir. These wines feature aromas of red berries, with dominant cherry and strawberry notes, and a touch of spice.

Crémant d’Alsace is known for its fine, elegant bubbles.

Sparkling wine production began in Alsace at the end of the 19th century when the region was part of the German Empire. Some Champagne producers moved to Alsace to make wine and sell it in Germany without the burden of high taxes.

Julien Dopff au Moulin was the first Alsatian winemaker to produce sparkling wine using the Traditional Method. He learned about the Traditional Method at the International Exhibition in Paris in 1889 and, after several years of training in Épernay, laid the foundation for what would become Crémant d’Alsace. The official name and AOC designation for Crémant d’Alsace were granted in 1975.

Crémant de Limoux

Limoux, located in the southern region of Languedoc in France, is at the heart of the “Catar” country. On the steep hills, cooled by winds from the Atlantic Ocean, high-quality white grapes have been cultivated for centuries, and sparkling wine production has thrived. Limoux is in friendly competition with Champagne over the title of the birthplace of sparkling wine. While the development of the Traditional Method undeniably belongs to Champagne, the first sparkling wine might very well have been produced in Limoux. It is said that the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Hilaire used corks from cork oak for their sparkling wines as early as 1531, long before this practice became standard in Champagne. There’s even a local legend that Dom Pérignon learned the sparkling wine technique at Saint-Hilaire Abbey and brought it to Champagne. While this is a beautiful story, it’s not supported by evidence, as Dom Pérignon primarily was focused on improving still wines in Champagne.

There are three sparkling wine AOCs in Limoux.

Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale AOC produces sparkling wines using the ancient “méthode ancestrale”, where bubble formation occurs during the primary fermentation in a sealed bottle. This method is fascinating, but it’s a subject for another discussion.

The other two AOCs in Limoux produce sparkling wines using the Traditional Method, and I’ll cover both, even though only one carries the Crémant title, as the distinction is mostly nominal.
Limoux has traditionally produced white sparkling wines from three grape varieties: Mauzac, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. Mauzac is an ancient variety from the South-West of France, known for its distinctive aroma of freshly cut grass, which gives the wine a fresh, summery character that’s easy to recognize. In Languedoc, it’s referred to as “Blanquette”. In 1938, Blanquette de Limoux became the first AOC of Languedoc, created specifically for this wine. Blanquette de Limoux wines were made from the three aforementioned varieties, without strict regulation on their proportions, leading to Mauzac gradually being replaced by the more well-known Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

In the late 1980s, efforts began to preserve local varieties, including Mauzac, and in 1990, Blanquette de Limoux was split into two AOCs: Blanquette de Limoux and Crémant de Limoux. Both produce sparkling wines from the same three grape varieties, according to the Traditional Method and other Crémant regulations. However, Blanquette de Limoux wines must contain at least 90% Mauzac. In contrast, Crémant de Limoux wines consist of 40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin Blanc, 0-20% Mauzac, and 0-10% Pinot Noir.

Blanquette de Limoux must spend at least 9 months on the lees, while Crémant de Limoux requires at least 12 months.

Crémant de Limoux wines are elegant, with aromas of white flowers, notes of brioche and spices, and ultra-fine bubbles. Blanquette de Limoux, on the other hand, combines the aromas of flowers and fresh grass with notes of honey and green apples.

Crémant de Loire

The Loire Valley is known for producing a significant amount of sparkling wine, though, unfortunately, much of it is of low quality. Thankfully, many Crémant de Loire wines stand out as a delightful exception to this trend.

Regionally, Crémant de Loire is located in the heart of the Loire Valley, specifically in the regions of Anjou, Saumur, Touraine, and Cheverny. While Sauvignon Blanc is the star of the Loire vineyards, it isn’t used in the production of Crémant de Loire — you’ll find it instead in Crémant de Bordeaux. The primary grape variety in Crémant de Loire is Chenin Blanc, which imparts a bright floral aroma to the wines. The main red variety used is Cabernet Franc. In addition to these, many other varieties are permitted, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Grolleau Noir, Grolleau Gris, and even the very rare, entirely local Orbois, which is difficult to find even within the Loire Valley itself.

Crémant de Loire offers a complex aroma profile combining the scents of white fruits, lemon, white flowers, and almond, with subtle notes of vanilla and licorice. The rosé varieties have a pronounced taste of red fruits.

Crémant from Die, Jura, Savoye, and even Bordeaux can be more challenging to find outside of France, but they are well worth the search. These regions produce interesting, high-quality sparkling wines with unique and distinctive flavors.

Crémant de Bordeaux

Bordeaux is primarily associated with red wines and Sauternes, but it also produces excellent sparkling wines. In fact, Bordeaux has been making sparkling wine since the early 19th century. However, the region’s long-standing focus on red wines overshadowed its sparkling wine production to the point that Crémant de Bordeaux only received AOC status in 1990. But this late recognition is not a reason to pass these wines.

The primary grape varieties used in Bordeaux’s white Crémant are: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. Sémillon imparts aromas of honey and fresh grass, while the wines also exhibit high minerality and floral notes. For the rosé Crémant, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the main varieties, often complemented by Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Bordeaux rosés are known for their bright, fruity, and very fresh flavors.

The wines must spend a minimum of 12 months on the lees, resulting in fine, long-lasting bubbles.

Crémant de Die

Die is a small region in the Rhône Valley, situated right between the southern and northern parts of the Rhône, an area not typically known for producing mainstream Rhône wines. The situation with sparkling wines here is similar to that in Limoux, but even more complex. Die has three AOCs for sparkling wine: one produced by the old méthode ancestrale, and two others by the Traditional Method according to all Crémant rules, with only one of them bearing the name “Crémant”.

Two white grape varieties form the base of Die’s sparkling wines are Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Clairette, which predominantly grows in the South of France (Provence, Languedoc).

The AOC that uses the méthode ancestrale is called Clairette de Die Tradition. Previously, the label included “méthode ancestrale”, but today this part is often omitted. This omission causes some confusion because the term “Tradition” is now commonly associated with the method used for Champagne production, not with what the producers of Clairette de Die Tradition intend. For further confusion, it’s called Clairette de Die Tradition even though the Clairette grape makes up no more than 25% of the blend, with Muscat being the primary grape. There’s no logical explanation for this; it’s simply something to remember.

The two AOCs that produce wine by the Traditional Method are Clairette de Die and Crémant de Die. Clairette de Die wines are made exclusively from Clairette grapes. In Crémant de Die, Clairette can constitute up to 55% of the blend, with the rest being Muscat Blanc and Aligoté.

These are aromatic, elegant wines with rich aromas of ripe apples and green fruits, accompanied by stable, fine bubbles. The wines must undergo a minimum maturation period of 12 months on the lees, contributing to their complexity and finesse.

Crémant du Jura

Jura is a small mountainous region located between Burgundy and Switzerland. Given its proximity, it’s no surprise that Burgundy heavily influences Jura, particularly in terms of grape varieties. Although Crémant de Jura only achieved AOC status in 1995, the region has been producing sparkling wines using the Traditional Method since the 18th century, and it does so with great skill.

The main grape varieties used in Crémant du Jura are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard. In white Crémant de Jura, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Trousseau make up 70% of the blend, resulting in wines with aromas of green apples, strawberries, and cranberries, accented by notes of tropical flowers. For rosé Crémant de Jura, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard comprise 50% of the blend, giving the wine a bouquet of red berries such as strawberries, cherries, and red currants.

Crémant de Savoie

Savoie is another small mountainous region located to the east of France, near the border with Switzerland, slightly south of Jura. Crémant de Savoie was the last of the French Crémants to receive AOC status, achieving it in 2015. 60% of the blend must consist of the local varieties Jacquère and Altesse, with Jacquère comprising at least 40%. The remaining 40% can include Chasselas, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay, and other varieties. Crémant de Savoie is known for its high minerality, citrus aromas with floral notes, elegance, and fine bubbles.

Crémant de Luxembourg

The history of sparkling wine production in Luxembourg dates back to 1885 when the French company Champagne Mercier established a branch in Luxembourg to sell Champagne to Germany without incurring high taxes. Luxembourg began producing its own sparkling wines in 1921 under the guidance of Paul Faber, and the region was granted AOC status in 1991. The main grape varieties used there include Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Elbling, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir (for rosé), and Chardonnay.

Crémant de Wallonie

Belgium is not typically associated with winemaking, it’s better known as a beer country, but it does have vineyards and produces wine, including Crémant. Crémant de Wallonie was granted AOC status in 2008. The main grape varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Meunier, along with Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, and Riesling. The base for Crémant de Wallonie is similar to that of Champagne, but with some local characteristics, resulting in a varietal taste that closely resembles Champagne.

As you can see, the world of Crémant is vast and diverse. Just try, choose, and enjoy!

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