Viognier is a unique white grape variety that produces wines unlike any other. It demands great care from the winemaker and came close to extinction in the 1970s before experiencing a revival and gaining popularity worldwide.
Viognier is known for its high sugar content, low acidity, and exceptionally intense aroma. In skilled hands, it yields full-bodied, well-structured wines with vibrant floral and fruit aromas and pronounced minerality. Viognier’s bouquet is highly complex and multi-layered, and it varies significantly depending on the terroir. The most characteristic aromas include peaches, nectarines, pears, mango, white flowers, honeysuckle, roses, and lavender. Interestingly, many people perceive completely dry Viognier as sweet due to its intensely aromatic profile.
In terms of its full profile, Viognier is truly one of a kind. Like Chardonnay, it produces rich, soft, and oily wines, but unlike Chardonnay—which has little varietal aroma and primarily reflects the winemaking process—Viognier has a distinctive and vivid bouquet. Aromatic varieties like Torrontés or Muscat also deliver strong aromas but lack the body and structure of Viognier. On the other hand, aromatic whites like Riesling and Gewürztraminer are more acidic. High-quality Viognier wines are among the few noble wines that are typically not suitable for aging and are best enjoyed young.
Viognier’s modern global spread originated from the Northern Rhône, where it is most closely associated with the Condrieu region. In Condrieu, winemaking is entirely focused on Viognier—it is the only permitted variety in the AOC—and the full-bodied, aromatic wines from this area are a benchmark for white Rhône wines.
The variety is ancient. Under the name “Vionnier,” it was first mentioned alongside the Condrieu region in 1781 by Barthélemy Faujas de Saint-Fonds in his book Histoire Naturelle de la Profiné de Dauphiné. It is clear, however, that the grape was cultivated long before this first known written reference.
The origins of Viognier remain unclear. It is believed to have originated in Dalmatia (modern-day Croatia) and was brought to the Rhône Valley by the Romans. Genetic analysis shows that Viognier is closely related to the Piedmontese variety Freisa and is a genetic cousin of Nebbiolo, which supports its Adriatic origin theory.
The most probable legend suggests that Viognier was introduced to Gaul by Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus in the late 3rd century AD. Probus is well known for restoring order to the Roman provinces, particularly Gaul, and for officially repealing a law introduced by Emperor Domitian in 92 AD that banned viticulture in the provinces. Domitian wanted the provinces to grow grain rather than grapes to supply the empire with food, but by the end of the third century, the Roman legions were suffering more from a shortage of wine than bread. The repeal in 280 AD allowed vineyards to flourish again. Probus actively encouraged viticulture and even had soldiers work in the vineyards when not in combat. It’s entirely plausible that Viognier reached the Rhône under his influence. In this context, the theory that the name Viognier comes from the nearby city of Vienne—a major city in Roman Gaul—seems logical. Vienne became a key Roman stronghold in 121 AD and remained so for centuries.
Viognier thrived in the Rhône for centuries, and its rich, aromatic wines from Condrieu were highly valued. In the 18th century, these wines were popular to the wealthy markets of Paris and England.
But then disaster struck. Phylloxera ravaged France’s vineyards, followed by two world wars that severely hampered recovery. The final blow came with the devastating frost of 1956. By 1965, Viognier had nearly vanished from existence—only about 8 hectares remained worldwide.
However, Viognier was fortunate. As early as 1970, Rhône winemakers began reviving vineyards with Viognier plantings. In addition to the Rhône, Languedoc also took interest and started cultivating the variety. The global wine community soon followed suit. Thanks to the efforts of the “Rhône Rangers,” a group of American winemakers dedicated to promoting Rhône varieties, Viognier made its way to California and eventually spread to other U.S. states. In Virginia, it even became the state’s signature white grape. Other countries also embraced Viognier.
Viognier is an unusual and intriguing grape, but it is also demanding and temperamental—not every region suits it, and not every winemaker is willing to take on the challenge.
Interestingly, another legend about the grape’s name suggests it comes from the Latin pronunciation of phrase via Gehennae—“road to the valley of Hinnom,” or more simply, “road to hell”—a reference to the difficulties of working with the variety.
Viognier has low yields, which discourages many growers for economic reasons. Moreover, it is susceptible to diseases and requires meticulous care.
The variety only reaches its full aromatic potential when the vines are at least 15–20 years old.
Viognier needs a warm climate to ripen fully. If picked too early, the grapes lack aromatic compounds, resulting in flat, characterless wines with an unpleasant herbal note. But in climates that are too hot, Viognier’s aroma fades, and the wine again becomes dull. Additionally, high temperatures can cause excessive sugar accumulation, resulting in wines with overpowering alcohol. This high alcohol, combined with the variety’s naturally low acidity and faint aromas, can create an unbalanced and heavy wine.
Timing the harvest is therefore critical. Grapes must be picked at full ripeness but not left on the vine too long afterward to avoid over-sugaring and excessive alcohol. That’s why, in hot and dry years that speed up sugar accumulation, producers in Condrieu and Château-Grillet often opt to make sweet wines instead, which helps mitigate the alcohol issue.
As a result, Viognier wines come in many styles: dry, sweet (often from late-harvest grapes), and even sparkling.
Full-bodied and well-structured, Viognier lends itself well to techniques like malolactic fermentation and lees aging. However, oak—especially new oak—must be used with caution, as its strong influence can easily overpower Viognier’s delicate aromas. The wine is most commonly aged in neutral materials, though some winemakers have successfully used a limited amount of oak, which adds vanilla notes and greater structure. In such cases, oak aging also enhances the wine’s potential for longer maturation.
Because of its naturally low acidity, Viognier does not generally age well. Its optimal drinking window is typically within 0 to 3 years, although wines from old vines or late-harvest grapes may last a bit longer. Certain winemaking techniques can also modestly extend its ageing potential. Geography also has some influence. On average, American and Australian Viogniers have slightly greater aging potential than their French counterparts.
Viognier’s distinctive floral aromas come primarily from its high levels of terpenoids—especially linalool (lavender scent), geraniol, and nerol (both rose-scented). Because these compounds are most concentrated in the grape skins, winemakers often use a short skin-contact maceration before fermentation to enhance floral character.
The fruity elements of Viognier’s aroma result mainly from esters formed during fermentation: ethyl hexanoate (apple), ethyl octanoate (peach), and ethyl decanoate (pear).
Of course, these associations are a simplified way to describe each compound’s contribution—just to give a general idea.
Most Viognier is still grown in France.
It is the exclusive variety cultivated in the AOC Condrieu and its tiny enclave, AOC Château-Grillet, both located on the west bank of the Rhône, about 40 km south of Lyon. Naturally, only pure Viognier wines are produced in these appellations. Interestingly, Condrieu appears to use a different clone of Viognier than what is planted in other parts of France or the world. This clone yields fewer and smaller berries, which intensifies the wine’s aroma—but, of course, also raises its price.
Until the mid-20th century, Condrieu produced mostly off-dry to sweet wines. Today, following modern taste trends, the region now focuses primarily on dry styles. Sweet wines are still made, but typically from late-harvest grapes dried on the vine. These grapes are harvested in multiple passes as they reach optimal ripeness. Wines from such harvests are labeled “Sélection des Grains Nobles.”
Dry Condrieu wines are typically full-bodied. Oak use is minimal, although some winemakers employ malolactic fermentation.
Elsewhere in the Rhône, Viognier is grown not for single-varietal wines, but as part of traditional Rhône white blends alongside Roussanne and Marsanne, sometimes with additions of Grenache Blanc and Rolle. However, in recent years, some producers have begun making pure Viognier wines in the IGP category.
In neighboring Côte-Rôtie, a red wine appellation, Viognier is co-fermented with Syrah. Up to 20% Viognier is legally allowed in these blends, though most producers use only 2–5%. Viognier helps stabilize the color of Syrah and adds aromatic complexity.
Outside of its Rhône homeland, the largest plantings of Viognier in France are now found in Languedoc, where it is used both in pure varietal wines and in white IGP blends. The warm southern climate suits Viognier, though the wines can sometimes reach alcohol levels so high they create an imbalance, even if aromatic intensity remains.
Thanks to the efforts of the Rhône Rangers, the United States now ranks second after France in Viognier production. It is grown most widely in California, where winemakers produce both single-varietal wines and blends with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, or Colombard. California Viogniers tend to be high in alcohol and not always well balanced.
Washington State also grows a significant amount of Viognier, where it performs very well both on its own and in Rhône-style blends with Roussanne, Marsanne, and Syrah.
In Australia, the largest Viognier producer is Yalumba, one of the country’s oldest wineries, known for its high-quality wines. Their Viognier vineyards are located in the Eden Valley.
Australia, New Zealand, Italy, South Africa, Israel, Chile, Argentina, and several other countries also grow Viognier in small quantities.
And practical stuff.
Like other highly aromatic varieties, Viognier should not be served too cold, as low temperatures mute the aroma. The optimal serving temperature is between 10–13°C (50–55°F).
Viognier pairs well with white meats, fatty fish, and aromatic herbs such as basil and tarragon. It also complements spicy cuisines like Thai food.
