Among the countries of the New World, New Zealand was one of the last to start planting vineyards and making wine. Which is hardly surprising: the first New Zealand colonists were the British (I am speaking here about modern geopolitics and will skip the earlier Māori history). And at that time the British had considerably more experience drinking wine than making it. Besides, the first century and a half were not particularly favorable for New Zealand winemaking, and the industry only began to develop properly in the 1970s. Yet today New Zealand is one of the rising stars of the global wine world, and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, combining the floral-fruity aromatics typical of the New World with the sharp flavors and chalky acidity associated with Old World wines, is considered by many to be the finest Sauvignon Blanc in the world.
The first vines in New Zealand were planted in 1819 by Anglican missionaries in the Kerikeri area (Northland, North Island). On September 25, 1819, Bishop Samuel Marsden wrote in his journal that “about 100 vines of different kinds” had been planted. He also added: “New Zealand appears to be very favourable to the vine, as far as I can judge. It will prove of vast importance in this part of the globe.” The vines planted that year in Kerikeri never produced fruit — apparently they were eaten by hungry goats. But in the long run, Samuel Marsden turned out to be absolutely right.
The first vines that actually produced wine grapes were planted in 1836 by James Busby, the British Resident, on his land in the Waitangi area. In 1840 those vines produced the first wine ever made in New Zealand. Busby, it must be said, was an enthusiastic advocate of winemaking. The vines he imported became the foundation of vineyards not only in New Zealand but also in Australia.
In 1851, a French Catholic mission, needing wine for communion, planted a vineyard in Hawke’s Bay. Today that vineyard forms part of Mission Estate Winery, the oldest commercial vineyard in New Zealand.
In 1881, the painter William Beetham planted Pinot Noir and Syrah in his vineyard. In 1895, the New Zealand government invited Italian oenologist Romeo Bragato to evaluate the country’s winemaking potential. After tasting Beetham’s Syrah, Bragato declared that New Zealand in general — and Wairarapa in particular — were perfectly suited for viticulture.
Despite such a promising beginning, New Zealand winemaking remained in rather a depressing state until the 1970s.
The country’s economy focused mainly on livestock farming — dairy products, meat, and wool. A large part of the population had British roots and was therefore accustomed primarily to beer and spirits rather than wine.
Government campaigns against alcoholism did little to help the wine industry either. Wine could not legally be sold in bottles until 1955, served in restaurants until 1960, or sold in supermarkets until as late as 1990.
The grape varieties grown at the time also left much to be desired. In the 19th century the dominant variety was the German Müller-Thurgau, a cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale.
After the phylloxera crisis in the late 19th century, American grape varieties were imported into New Zealand. However, instead of using them as rootstock for Vitis vinifera (the standard global practice), growers often cultivated them directly or created hybrids. By the 1960s, the most common grape in New Zealand was Isabella (known locally as Albany Surprise), an old hybrid of Vitis labrusca and Vitis vinifera.
Winemaking technology was not particularly well regulated either. Producers were allowed to add sugar (to compensate for unripe grapes) and add water (to increase volume). Under such conditions, producing high-quality wine was hardly possible.
Overall, New Zealand produced simple table wines and fortified wines.
The situation began to change in the late 1960s.
With the arrival of jet travel, a new cultural phenomenon appeared in New Zealand known as “overseas experience” (OE). Young New Zealanders, after finishing school or university, began spending a year or more abroad — most often in Europe — discovering the wider world. And with it, they discovered European wine culture. Returning home, they found themselves suffering acutely from its absence in New Zealand.
At the same time, the country abolished the law known as the “six o’clock swill.” Under this rule, bars and pubs closed one hour after the end of the workday and remained closed on Sundays. During that single available hour, people tried to pour into themselves as much alcohol as physically possible. Needless to say, this was hardly conducive to thoughtful wine drinking or leisurely tastings.
Around the same time, restaurants were granted BYOB licenses (“bring your own bottle”), allowing customers to drink alcohol they brought with them.
In 1973, British foreign policy forced New Zealand to reconsider its economic model. Britain joined the European Economic Community, and could no longer maintain its preferential contracts with New Zealand for agricultural imports. Export revenues suddenly became uncertain, and the country had to diversify quickly. New Zealand turned its attention to winemaking. And here, quite unexpectedly, the well-developed dairy industry proved extremely useful. Dairy production relied on large refrigerated stainless-steel tanks, cooling systems, and sterilization equipment — all of which could easily be adapted for modern winemaking. It would have been a shame not to use them.
That same year, Montana Wines (today known as Brancott Estate) planted the first vineyards in Marlborough. In 1979, they released their first Sauvignon Blanc, and even labeled the bottle with the grape variety and vintage. Before that, New Zealand producers had not been particularly concerned with informative labels — and frankly there had been little reason to.
The 1979 vintage was excellent across many wineries, sparking increased interest in winemaking within the country. Investment grew, vineyards expanded, and the industry began to develop rapidly.
However, many new producers focused primarily on quick profit, planting high-yield hybrids that produced large crops but unremarkable wines. It soon became clear that such wines would never succeed internationally. In 1984, the government offered farmers financial compensation for uprooting unpromising vineyards. Here the New Zealanders deserve credit. Many growers reconsidered their approach and, instead of removing vineyards, grafted better varieties onto existing root systems — particularly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Improved vineyard practices were also introduced: pruning, leaf removal, crop thinning — all of which dramatically improved wine quality.
In 1985, Sauvignon Blanc from Cloudy Bay Vineyards attracted worldwide attention and was hailed as an outstanding wine.
From that moment on, New Zealand winemaking truly began to flourish and to enter the global market.
In the early 1990s, New Zealand had 130 wineries, producing 57.7 million liters of wine from about 6,000 hectares of vineyards. More than half of the country’s wine exports went to the United Kingdom, though markets soon expanded to the rest of Europe, the United States, and Asia.
By 2022, the number of wineries had grown to 744, vineyards covered 41,603 hectares, and production reached 383 million liters. Today, about 90% of New Zealand wine is exported. Major markets include the United States, the United Kingdom, and Australia, but New Zealand wines are now recognized all over the world.
In 2023, Hawke’s Bay was officially named the 12th Great Wine Capital of the World, joining cities such as Bordeaux, Napa Valley, and Verona.
It should also be noted that New Zealand contributed something else to the wine world besides its famous Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. It gave us the screw cap. In 2001, New Zealand became the first country to widely adopt the screw-cap closure for wine bottles, launching an almost holy war between supporters of the traditional cork and fans of the metal cap. Today, about 90% of New Zealand wines are sealed with screw caps — which makes sense, since roughly the same 90% of New Zealand wines are best enjoyed young and are not intended for long aging. I discuss wine bottle closures in more detail, with all their advantages and disadvantages, in the article “From Content to Cover. Corks and Bottles.”
It is hardly surprising that once the country finally committed itself seriously to winemaking, it achieved remarkable success so quickly. New Zealand is practically designed for viticulture. The entire country lies comfortably within the “wine latitudes” — the belt between 30° and 50°. Its northernmost vineyards (Northland) lie at roughly the same latitude as Jerez in Spain, while the southernmost (Central Otago) are comparable to Bordeaux. Moreover, New Zealand is an island nation, and the surrounding ocean significantly moderates the climate, making winters milder and summers cooler. Plenty of sunshine, moderate warmth, and long growing seasons — ideal conditions for the vine.
Main Grape Varieties
About 95% of all New Zealand wine production is based on four varieties — Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. But New Zealand winemaking is by no means limited to them alone.
Naturally, Sauvignon Blanc stands firmly in first place. Sauvignon Blanc and New Zealand are practically twins in the minds of wine lovers — the two words have become inseparably linked. As of 2025, Sauvignon Blanc accounted for 78% of all New Zealand wine production and 89% of the country’s wine exports. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is highly recognizable: intensely aromatic, with characteristic notes of gooseberry, freshly cut grass, and green bell pepper, along with citrus, tropical fruit, and floral aromas.
Those green aromas — gooseberry, pepper, grass — are associated with the presence of methoxypyrazines in the wine. Significant quantities of methoxypyrazines are synthesized in genetically related varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc, as well as in their descendants — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère, and Sémillon. Their concentration in grapes depends on many factors. For example, vines growing on well-drained soils or receiving limited irrigation tend to contain fewer methoxypyrazines than vines supplied with more water. High temperatures and strong sunlight break down these compounds.
New Zealand’s climate and soils allow grapes to accumulate enough methoxypyrazines for the green flavors to remain vivid and expressive. In Sauvignon Blanc from hotter regions — say, California — these flavors often disappear. At the same time, New Zealand is warm enough for Sauvignon Blanc to develop aromas of flowers and tropical fruits, which are barely noticeable in wines from its cooler homeland — the Loire Valley, particularly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The result is a wine style that combines elements of the Old World and the New World, and many consider it the ideal expression of Sauvignon Blanc.
After the first international successes of Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand producers spent many years making it in a fairly uniform way, maintaining the recognizable national style.
In recent years, however, some winemakers — especially smaller producers — have begun experimenting more actively. Some deliberately increase the level of methoxypyrazines, making the wine even greener, sometimes almost to the point of caricature. Others experiment with short fermentation or aging in oak barrels to add complexity, though with delicate Sauvignon Blanc this approach can be somewhat risky.
Pinot Gris appeared in New Zealand only in the 1990s, but gradually became fashionable and recently pushed Chardonnay out of its traditional second place. Today it accounts for about 6% of total production and 3% of exports. New Zealand Pinot Gris is typically aromatic and refreshing, with notes of apple, pear, honeysuckle, bread, and spice.
It is produced in several styles. At the moment, the Alsatian style dominates — relatively dry, fuller-bodied, with higher alcohol, a soft texture, and more phenolic structure, capable of aging. The Italian style is also present: lighter, dry, youthful, and more restrained aromatically. And finally there is a distinct New Zealand style — slightly off-dry, with a touch of residual sugar and a silky texture. Some examples are also aged in oak.
Chardonnay now occupies third place, with about 5% of total production and 1% of exports.
As I mentioned in my article about Chardonnay, it is a grape whose character is shaped primarily not by the variety itself but by winemaking techniques and the climate where it grows.
Chardonnay is now cultivated in all wine regions of New Zealand, using a wide range of approaches. As a result, you can find Chardonnay in virtually any style — from light-bodied, mineral, citrus-driven wines to full-bodied, oak-aged, buttery examples with notes of peach and melon.
Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Although these aromatic varieties occupy only about 1% of plantings, New Zealand winemakers treat them with great care, and they certainly deserve attention. Producers make the full stylistic spectrum — from bone-dry wines through various levels of sweetness to late-harvest styles, sometimes even using botrytized grapes. Every Riesling and Gewürztraminer I have tasted in New Zealand has been a pleasure.
Among red grapes, Pinot Noir unquestionably holds first place.
New Zealand Pinot Noir is the second most famous in the world after Burgundy. It accounts for about 7% of total production and 3% of exports, making it the second most important grape after Sauvignon Blanc.
The country’s cool maritime climate is ideal for Pinot Noir, and New Zealand takes full advantage of this. New Zealand Pinot Noir is known for its intense, fruit-driven aromas, though the exact style varies greatly depending on the region.
Three regions are particularly famous for their Pinot Noir: Wairarapa, Marlborough, Central Otago. Wairarapa and Marlborough, with their maritime climates, produce Pinot Noir reminiscent of young Burgundy. Within Wairarapa, Martinborough has become especially famous for Pinot Noir in recent years.
Central Otago, on the South Island, is the only major wine region in New Zealand with a continental climate. Pinot Noir here tends to be fuller-bodied (around 13.5–14% alcohol) with concentrated flavors of red berries.
Overall, New Zealand Pinot Noir is generally made to be enjoyed young rather than aged for decades.
Although Syrah was the grape that first earned New Zealand positive attention back in 1895, yet it is still planted only in small quantities. Syrah requires abundant warmth and sunshine, and in New Zealand’s relatively cool climate the wines can sometimes turn out thin, acidic, and pale. However, in the sunniest and warmest regions — particularly Hawke’s Bay and Waiheke Island — excellent Syrah is produced, elegant and reminiscent of the style of Northern Rhône.
The same regions also grow Bordeaux red varieties, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, producing Bordeaux-style blends, usually dominated by Merlot.
Wine Styles
New Zealand primarily produces single-varietal wines, along with a small proportion of Bordeaux-style blends (about 2% of total production).
The country also makes rosé wines, mostly based on Pinot Noir. These rosés are intended for immediate drinking rather than aging — light, refreshing, and fruit-forward. Most are dry, though some are slightly off-dry.
One should also mention New Zealand sparkling wines, produced using the traditional method (secondary fermentation in the bottle) from classic Champagne grapes — Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In recent years, sparkling Sauvignon Blanc has also begun to appear.
The first traditional-method sparkling wine in New Zealand was produced in 1965 and called Champelle. In 1975, Champagne winemaker Daniel Le Brun, inspired by New Zealand’s climate and terroir — ideal for sparkling wines — moved to the country and established a winery there. The Le Brun family remains one of New Zealand’s largest producers of high-quality sparkling wine today. Other Champagne houses soon followed, most notably Deutz and Moët & Chandon, establishing their own operations in New Zealand.
Most sparkling wine is produced in Marlborough. In 2013, several producers created the Méthode Marlborough collaboration to promote and regulate quality. To carry the Méthode Marlborough designation, wines must: be produced exclusively in Marlborough; use the traditional method; be made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, or Pinot Meunier grown in Marlborough; and be aged on lees for at least 18 months.
Sparkling wines are also produced in Hawke’s Bay, Central Otago, and Gisborne.
Wine Regions
Before we talk about the regions themselves, it is worth mentioning a few particular features of how the New Zealand wine industry is organized.
Some winemakers follow the classic model: they grow the grapes and produce the wine on the same estate. However, New Zealand has traditionally had a significant group of independent grape growers who cultivate grapes and then sell them to winemakers.
Since New Zealand is a relatively small country, these grapes can be transported almost anywhere. A winemaker in, say, Gisborne may therefore produce not only wine from Gisborne grapes but also wine made from grapes grown in Marlborough.
If those batches are vinified separately, both wines can appear in the portfolio. But they can also be blended together to produce a kind of average, pan–New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
To protect the names of its wine regions, New Zealand introduced a Geographical Indication (GI) system in 2017, broadly similar to the European model. Regions that receive GI certification may place their name on the label provided that at least 85% of the grapes were grown within that region.
Now let us travel through the main wine regions of New Zealand from north to south.
Northland is the smallest, northernmost, and warmest wine region of the country. Located closest to the equator, its climate is almost subtropical — warm, sunny, and humid. It was here that the first grapevines in New Zealand were planted. The main varieties grown are Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Gris, and Merlot.
Chardonnay is the most widely planted, producing full-bodied wines with aromas of melon and peach.
Syrah is the region’s key red grape. The warm climate suits it particularly well, and the wines tend to be medium-bodied, with soft tannins and aromas of ripe fruit and spice.
Pinot Gris here is usually rich and full-bodied, with expressive notes of peach and spice.
Merlot, another variety grateful for warmth, produces medium-bodied wines with moderate tannins and bright fruit character.
Auckland is one of the country’s oldest wine regions, located around the city of Auckland. It includes three subregions: Waiheke Island, West Auckland, Matakana. This area is home both to some of New Zealand’s largest producers and to small boutique wineries of exceptionally high quality.
The region produces some of the best Chardonnay in New Zealand — full-bodied wines with balanced acidity and aromas of tropical fruit.
Auckland is also famous for its elegant Bordeaux-style red blends, typically based on Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.
Excellent Syrah is produced here as well — aromatic and very fruit-driven — along with Pinot Gris, usually refreshing and medium-bodied with notes of pear and peach.
The region also produces very good Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Montepulciano, and Petit Verdot. Auckland in general is known for its diversity of grape varieties and winemaking approaches.
Gisborne is the region that sees the sunrise first in the entire country. It is home both to large producers and small boutique wineries and has recently gained a reputation for constant experimentation — with new grape varieties, new styles, and new vineyard sites.
The region is best known for Chardonnay, specializing in young, highly aromatic, lighter wines.
Pinot Gris is produced in a variety of styles and levels of sweetness, typically with strong aromas of melon and spice.
Merlot is also grown here. The climate is not always ideal for it, but in dry years the results can be quite successful.
Sauvignon Blanc also appears here, usually in a tropical style dominated by ripe fruit aromas.
Hawke’s Bay is the oldest and second-largest wine region in New Zealand, and the country’s first commercial winery was founded here.
Sunny Hawke’s Bay is famous primarily for its Merlot- and Cabernet Sauvignon–based blends, as well as for its elegant Syrah.
Among white wines, Chardonnay holds the leading position — typically full-bodied, rich, and concentrated.
Pinot Gris and tropical-style Sauvignon Blanc are also produced here.
The region also grows Pinot Noir, along with excellent aromatic varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Viognier.
Wairarapa, located in the south of the North Island, is the smallest wine region in New Zealand — but certainly not the least important. It is widely regarded as the Pinot Noir capital of the country. The climate here resembles that of Burgundy, and the Pinot Noir produced here is often made in a Burgundian style. Particular attention should be paid to the subregion Martinborough, whose Pinot Noir has become some of the most celebrated in the country. In fact, Martinborough is often mentioned as if it were a separate region.
Among white varieties, Sauvignon Blanc leads, producing wines with well-balanced tropical and green aromas combined with pronounced minerality.
Chardonnay is also made here in a northern Burgundian style — highly mineral, refreshing, and citrus-driven.
The long warm autumns allow producers to make Pinot Gris in a wide range of styles, including late-harvest and botrytized wines.
The same applies to Riesling and Gewürztraminer. In fact, the best Gewürztraminer I have ever tasted came from Martinborough.
Wairarapa is a region of small, often family-owned wineries. Standardization is not the goal here, and wines from different producers can vary greatly in style and philosophy.
Crossing the narrow strait, we arrive on the South Island — moving from the smallest region to the largest, and from the capital of Pinot Noir to the capital of Sauvignon Blanc. Marlborough.
Marlborough produces three quarters of all New Zealand wine. It is also the country’s most internationally famous region, with about 85% of New Zealand’s wine exports originating here.
The main grape — about 80% of the region’s production — is, of course, Sauvignon Blanc.This is the classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc known around the world — the wine that built New Zealand’s reputation.
Pinot Noir is also widely planted in Marlborough, producing medium-bodied wines with light tannins and aromas of dark cherry and spice.
Chardonnay is produced as well, usually unoaked, with expressive aromas of peach and citrus.
Producers also make Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris in a full range of styles, from dry to botrytized sweet wines.
In 2018, the same year Marlborough received GI status, several producers formed the organization Appellation Marlborough Wine to maintain regional quality standards. To qualify for this designation, wines must be produced only from grapes grown in Marlborough, and since 2022, be approved by an independent tasting panel
As mentioned earlier, Marlborough is also the center of New Zealand’s sparkling wine production.
Nelson is the sunniest region in the country. It is home mainly to small boutique wineries and produces excellent Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, as well as Pinot Gris in various styles and sweetness levels.
North Canterbury has a cool, dry climate. Producers make a little of everything, though the most important grapes are Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay.
Waitaki Valley is a relatively young but rapidly developing region. The first vines were planted only in 2001.
The region lies between the ocean on one side and mountains on the other, with hot dry summers, cold winters, and long dry autumns.
The main grape is Pinot Noir, along with aromatic Riesling and Pinot Gris, and smaller amounts of Chardonnay.
Finally we reach Central Otago, the southernmost commercial wine region in the world. It is also the only major New Zealand wine region without direct access to the sea, and it is partially protected from maritime influence by surrounding mountains. The climate here is continental, with hot but short summers and cold nights, allowing grapes to develop intense fruit flavors while retaining acidity.
As in Wairarapa, Pinot Noir dominates, though the style is quite different — richer, higher in alcohol, and intensely fruit-driven. This is a distinctly New World Pinot Noir, stylistically closer to examples from Australia and California.
Besides Pinot Noir, the region produces excellent Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris across the full spectrum of sweetness, as well as full-bodied Chardonnay with mineral and citrus notes.
Bishop Samuel Marsden was right: the vine did indeed prove important to this part of the world. New Zealand accounts for only about 1% of global wine production, yet the wine world is now hard to imagine without New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, which many consider the finest expression of the grape. And although Sauvignon Blanc currently defines the country’s reputation, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and its red blends are equally worthy of attention.
Discuss on FB
